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Muttonhead
Mountain/Rock

Muttonhead

 
Muttonhead

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Arizona, United States, North America

Lat/Lon: 31.87128°N / 109.99503°W

Object Title: Muttonhead

Activities: Trad Climbing

Season: Spring, Fall, Winter

 

Page By: Dow Williams

Created/Edited: Nov 29, 2012 / Feb 28, 2013

Object ID: 827734

Hits: 831 

Page Score: 81.84%  - 14 Votes 

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Overview/Approach

 
Summit of Muttonhead
 

Muttonhead has two aliases. The more common is "middle sister" as it is situated between Sheepshead and Hootgoat. Supposedly Scott Ayers gave it the name "Sheepshit" originally but it did not stick. I suppose one could rationalize the name Muttonhead in that this peak appears headless when compared to Sheepshead. Mutton is the proper name used for the carcass and/or meal portion of a sheep being prepared for food. It is actually a much taller peak than it appears on approach as Sheepshead is broader and in the foreground. Like Sheepshead, Muttonhead mostly just sports one decent climbing face, its west side.
 
Mystery of the Desert, 5.9
Mystery of the Desert, 5.9

Mystery of the Desert (5.9) is by far the most common route on the west face and offers six pitches to the summit. I consider it as solid a trad route as any on Sheepshead. Another notable route is the Inevitable Awaits You (5.11a), a three pitch sport route to the left of Mystery. There are a few other routes on the west face, mostly unnamed bolted lines.

From the parking area for Sheepshead, follow the established climbers trail past Absinthe of Mallet and continue past the base of the west face of Sheepshead for the west face of Muttonhead. A well-established trail crosses the shared gully. Continue to the north corner of the west face. A large left facing corner is followed by a much smaller one. The smaller one is the start of Mystery of the Desert. A bolt line follows up the face on the right side of the crack (2012).

Route Description(s)

 
Mystery of the Desert, 5.9
 

The Routes are Listed Left to Right as you Face the West Wall

  • The Inevitable Awaits You- 3 Pitches- 5.11a/

  • Mystery of the Desert- 6 Pitches- 5.9/
  • This first pitch is not the obvious left facing corner. Rather it follows the next corner/crack to the left. The second pitch is much more challenging with a fun roof pull via a solid hand jam and finishes off through what they call the “wedge” for the more comfortable belay. The fourth through fifth pitches (broken down into three pitches on RC.com) involve the most sustained climbing of the original route. What looks like a simple hand crack, shallows out and turns into a layback reach for the dike traverse above. After traversing left, a few thoughtful slab moves above lead to the top of the wall. Another pitch has been added to the summit of Muttonhead. It is directly behind where you top out and is considerably harder than any of the climbing below. It is a mix of bolts and gear following an arching steep crack. There is a fixed rappel on top to return to the summit gully and thus walkoff below. Dow

  • (Un-named)- 4 Pitches- 5.10b/

  • Seeing is Believing- 3 Pitches- 5.10a/

  • Southeast Arete- 3 Pitches- 5.10+ A0/

  • Oops I Sharted- 3 Pitches- 5.11+/
  • External Links

  • Topo
  • Cornonado National Forest
  • Wells Fargo RV Park Cochise is best enjoyed by camping along the dirt road anywhere from Sheepshead on to the north. However, if you want to do a night in Tombstone or day trip it every day, this is the best of the three available with clean showers and walking distance to downtown.
  • Big Nose Kate’s Saloon Best place for beers in Tombstone. Drop in for karaoke on Thursdays to meet the locals.
  • Images

    Sheepshead and Muttonhead