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My Laundry, 5.9, 2 Pitches
Route

My Laundry, 5.9, 2 Pitches

 
My Laundry, 5.9, 2 Pitches

Page Type: Route

Location: California, United States, North America

Lat/Lon: 34.03845°N / 116.14688°W

Object Title: My Laundry, 5.9, 2 Pitches

Route Type: Trad Climbing

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall

Time Required: Half a day

Rock Difficulty: 5.9 (YDS)

Number of Pitches: 2

Route Quality: 
 - 1 Votes
 

 

Page By: Dow Williams

Created/Edited: Nov 20, 2015 / Nov 20, 2015

Object ID: 959655

Hits: 408 

Page Score: 75.81%  - 6 Votes 

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Overview/Approach

 
2nd Pitch
2nd Pitch

My Laundry is one of my favorite multi-pitch routes in Joshua Tree. It gets overlooked for Breakfast of Champions which is also located on the north face of South Astrodome, but My Laundry is a much better climb. The fact it has some bird shit on it is probably what repels the urban crowd. But My Laundry is a significantly more sustained route at the grade. They are both located on the iconic north face of the South Astrodome. Perhaps Miramonte’s inclusion of Breakfast of Champions in his “Top 12 Trad Moderates” is the reason why it is more popular. In any case, I was more impressed with My Laundry. It was established in 1976.
 
1st Pitch
1st Pitch

The bolted first pitch is the crux lead but the second pitch offers fun trad climbing at the grade as well. The Astrodomes offer one of the better hikes and remote climbing options in Joshua Tree . South and North Astrodome are two of the taller features in the park. This area is named Wonderland South. One of my favorite areas to climb in all of Joshua Tree is Bighorn Mating Grotto and the Astrodomes are located along the way.

It is imperative that you park and start at the right trail head or the approach can be much longer. Drive down paved roads to the Barker Dam trail head. Continue driving out of that paved parking area on a dirt road heading north to a smaller trail head. Hike north along the trail and cut west following the trail past an old homestead. Enter the wash there and continue northwest following the wash until you can see the north face of the South Astrodome on the left. Hike up to the base of the north face. Breakfast of Champions is on the far right hand side of the South Astrodome and My Landry is centered on the left hand side. The north face of the North Astrodome starts just to the right of Breakfast of Champions.

Route Description

My Laundry, 200+/-, 5.9

1st Pitch- 100’- 5.9/ This is a fantastic fully bolted pitch. I am a crack enthusiast, but thoroughly enjoyed the crimpy exposed traverse off the boulder, angling up to an under cling. When you pull over the broad arête below the under cling, make one more traverse move on micro edges before heading up to it. A few easy moves right past an anchor bring you to a mantel at the grade below another fixed anchor. The topo in Miramonte’s first edition guide does not show this 2nd anchor. There is quite a bit of bird of prey feces and feathers, but nothing that would deter me from repeating the route.

2nd Pitch- 100’- 5.9/ Head up and left up the shallow steep corner with small pro and solid stances. Continue above via several hand cracks/corners to a fixed rap below a tree.

Descent

Rap the route with a single 60m rope.

Essential Gear

A single rack through C4#2 and a combination of slings and draws. This is a pure north face, so dress accordingly. A single 60m rope gets you down in two quick raps.

Images

1st PitchWonderland Tootsie RollBarker Dam2nd Pitch1st Pitch