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NE Chute/Ridge

 

Page Type: Route

Location: California, United States, North America

Lat/Lon: 37.72470°N / 119.2564°W

Object Title: NE Chute/Ridge

Route Type: Scrambling

Season: Summer, Fall

Time Required: A long day

Rock Difficulty: Class 3

Route Quality: 
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Page By: Matthew Holliman

Created/Edited: Nov 23, 2003 / Feb 23, 2006

Object ID: 159472

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Approach

From Silver Lake, follow the Rush Creek trail to its intersection with the Pacific Crest Trail. Follow the PCT north to an intersection with the Marie Lakes trail (possibly unsigned, and indistinct in places).

Pass both Marie Lakes on the north side to reach Lake 11746, north of the peak. The uppermost Marie Lake features a variety of talus, boulders, and generally annoying impediments on the north shore; the south side is blocked by cliffs and steep, icy snowbanks that reach the water's edge. The route from the lake to Lake 11746 traverses slabs and meadows; the 7.5' shows a large permanent snowfield here, but by late season, this shrinks and can be bypassed without needing axe/crampons.

Route Description

From Lake 11746, your objective is to gain Rodgers' NE Ridge. A chute is found leading to the pass along the ridge; the chute is shown on the 7.5'. Once you locate the chute (which may be hidden from view until you arrive beneath it), simply follow it to its top, and walk along the easy ridge to the summit.

The chute itself is miserably loose, but one can find reasonably solid rock by climbing the face to either side. The climbing is sustained third class, and seemed somewhat reminiscent of the Rock Route on Clyde Minaret, albeit technically considerably easier. Like the Rock Route, many small ledges reduce the fall potential in an otherwise steep chute (which has an average angle of 50-60° in sections). Also like the Rock Route, most of the loose rock is just a veneer; the underlying holds are generally solid (although every now and again one will give way just to keep you on your toes).

This is a far superior climb to the easier SE Ridge route. The main drawback is the tedious approach past Marie Lakes required to gain access to the chute.

Essential Gear

A helmet is essential if you're climbing with others. In early season, axe and crampons may be necessary to negotiate the chute.