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NE face

NE face

NE face

Page Type: Route

Location: Valais/Haute-Savoie, France, Europe

Lat/Lon: 45.98710°N / 7.01170°E

Object Title: NE face

Route Type: Glacier/Rock climb

Time Required: Half a day

Difficulty: PD II

Route Quality: 
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Page By: Huberschwiller

Created/Edited: Aug 21, 2005 / Aug 21, 2005

Object ID: 166394

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From Trient hut (3170 m) cross the Trient Plateau in WSW direction, conturn the crevassed zone on the right to reach the Purtscheller Collar (3383 m).

Route Description

From the Collar, a snow slope leads to the foot of the NE face. Climb some rock tiers, staying on the right. A not well marked couloir leads oblique to the left and reaches the N ridge.
This ridge leads easy to the summit.

This is the normal route to Aiguille Purtscheller and the route of the first climber, Ludwig Purtscheller.

Abseiling :
Climb down 10 meters through the NE couloir. Here is the equipped abseiling route (2 abseilings of 30 meters). If the snow slope underneath is icy, a third abseiling length is necessary.

Essential Gear

Ice-axe, crampons, rope for abseilings of 30 meters.


Purtscheller needle in the...Purtscheller needle (June 2005)