North Cascades
Approach
Start at rainey pass on hwy 20. Go up the lake anne/heather pass trail to just below heather pass. Here you will find a climbers path up and over the pass. At the pass the rte is very easy to find and just aim for Black peak. There is a trail if it is not snow bound to follow past lewis lake (camp spots here) and to the upper wing lake.
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Route Description
From wing lake ascend to the col to the right of the summit to start the NE ridge climb. The climb to here is talus or 25-30 degree snow. Once at the col the climbing starts out with 3rd to 4th class scrambling on some loose rock. Stay to the left at first and climb as high as you feel comfortable with the exposure to save time. The rock gets better the higher you go. The crux being in the center of the ridge and about 5.2 but after that more 4th class scrambling to the false summit. The rte from the false summit over to the true summit is a snow arete which you will traverse across then up the last 4th class gulley to the true summit. descend the south rte.
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Essential Gear
A 30 Meter rope is all that is needed as there is no rappelling on the descent and anything longer rope drag would be the problem. We took a set of nuts, a small set of cam's, and a large hex. We only roped up in the center for 2 pitches and could have gotten away with just the set of nuts, hex, and the bundle of slings. No ice axe or crampons needed but may be useful in late season.
Miscellaneous Info
If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.
