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NE Summit - West Face

 
NE Summit - West Face

Page Type: Route

Location: China, Asia

Lat/Lon: 34.77193°N / 82.36313°E

Object Title: NE Summit - West Face

Route Type: Mountaineering

Time Required: Expedition

Difficulty: 40 degree snow

Route Quality: 
 - 1 Votes
 

 

Page By: FuyuNoAkuma

Created/Edited: Nov 30, 2007 / Dec 4, 2007

Object ID: 361426

Hits: 1560 

Page Score: 71.06%  - 1 Votes 

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Overview

An easy route. I went from 5350m where I had my base camp. It took me almost 8 and 1/2 hours BC-summit-BC. Possible problems are deep snow, hard wind and watch out for crevasses (not big risk).

Getting There

See main page.
When you spot the mountain from the west head for a deep valley. It is almost in between the two highest points.

Route Description

BC = 34°47'55.44"N 82°17'20.43"E
From base camp look west. There are some deep valleys which look tempting for approach. Don't use them. Hard walking on big rocks and loose scree. Choose the long ridge running parallel with the range instead. There is a deep valley between this ridge and slope where the snow starts. Walking along the snow line is not good either. Rocks, ice and rolling topography makes it hard to go this way.
Continue on the ridge until the gravel ends.
You see two defined peaks in front of the wall. On this wall the highest point of the NE part of the massif is located.
Walk SE past these two peaks. Closest way to access to summit ridge is just under the two defined peaks.
The route drops a little in front of the wall. Rocky outcroppings on your right. Climb next to these. Perhaps 40 degrees.
When on ridge head dead north (left).
The summit ridge has a crevasse in the middle. It runs in S-N direction. A little bit corniced.
The highest point is at 34°46'25"N 82°21'51"E
6368m GPS.
Many maps show other elevations. Sometimes the SW summit is given as the higher of the two.
 
Routes
 

Down

It's tempting to go steeper down. Don't! The fastest and steepest way down has hidden crevasses under the snow. I know.

Essential Gear

Warm clothing.
Snow shoes will help.
Also crampons, but not 100% necessary.

View

N and NW - Keriya and Qong Muztagh range and peaks.
NW and E - Beginning of the Chang Tang Plateau.
E - The emptiness of the western brink of the Chang Tang.
S - Many far away mountains without names and saline lakes.
SW - Memar Range and Loutou Co.
W - Two large salt lakes. Puer Co is the north one. I have forgotten the name of the other.

Images

Descent from Toze Kangri NE peakReturn from NE summitAlmost whole route seenView from Toze Kangri NE ridgeView from Toze Kangri NE ridgeToze Kangri NE routeRoutes