Welcome to SP!  -
Needles Eye, 5.10
Route
Contribute 
 
Geography
Parents 
Routes
 

Needles Eye, 5.10

 
Needles Eye, 5.10

Page Type: Route

Location: South Dakota, United States, North America

Object Title: Needles Eye, 5.10

Route Type: Trad Climbing, Sport Climbing

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall

Time Required: Less than two hours

Rock Difficulty: 5.10 (YDS)

Number of Pitches: 1

Route Quality: 
 - 2 Votes
 

 

Page By: Dow Williams

Created/Edited: Jun 15, 2006 / Mar 28, 2013

Object ID: 200654

Hits: 6245 

Page Score: 76.66%  - 7 Votes 

Vote: Log in to vote

 

Overview/Approach

 
Needles Eye Climb
 

The Needles Eye area is located along the Needles Highway next to its namesake spire and the long one lane tunnel. Adjacent to the Needles Eye are several other classic features including the Bell Tower, Hitching Post, and Bloody Spire. From Sylvan Lake, head up the Needles Highway. The Needles Eye is the obvious spire before the tunnel, which is usually easily identifiable by tourists milling around in the summer time. We had it to ourselves for a short period in April before some folks with a real southern accent pulled off and chatted at me the whole time I was climbing the route. I never once responded, except a laugh here or there, but they never came up for air. I am no doubt in their photo album back home. Needles Eye is a granite spire with a slit that is 3 to 4 feet wide and 30 to 40 feet tall.

Route Description

 
Needles Eye
 

I did the 5.10 direct face route on the Needles eye, but there are other various routes on the feature itself, Moonlight Rib- lower 5’s, Gold Line- 5.8, White Line- 5.8 and Doody Direct- a 5.8 trad route.

For the 5.10 direct face, there is a bolt 20’ off the ground directly on the face. You can place some small gear early, but not much and in fact one of our pieces did come out. The first 20 feet is the most difficult section. Once you get past the half way point, you have a significant run out section that moves left up the corner of the spire, but the climbing is the easiest through this blank section. Towards the top, you want to traverse back right. There are some pitons to your far left, but you are better served (rope drag) to ignore them and place gear as you traverse over right. You will reach a grove of sorts that makes for some challenging climbing again and that is your path to the summit. There is a rap station on top. You need two 60 meter ropes to rap this route.

External Links

  • Needles Eye Area Map
  • Weather
  • Black Hills Climbing Coalition
  • OR: Best True Technical Clothing and Accessories in the Outdoor Industry
  • Scarpa, has surpassed La Sportiva in terms of quality, function, value
  • Osprey Backpacks, Not a Second Choice
  • Great Outdoors Depot
  • Mont-Bell
  • Cascade Designs (MSR; Thermarest; Platypus)



  • Essential Gear/Guide Books

    2- 60 meter ropes, set of nuts and small cams, helmet, harness, etc.
    • Recommended Climbing Routes in the Needles of Custer State Park in the Black Hills of South Dakota by John Page and Mount Rushmore National Memorial Climber's Guide by Vernon R. Phinney, both available at Granite Sports, Hill City, SD, 605 574-2425
    • Touch the Sky by Paul Piana (Out of print, try to find it used on the internet)

    Images

    Needles Eye ClimbCathedral SpiresNeedles Eye ClimbNeedles EyeNeedles Eye ClimbNeedle\'s Eye