Climbed Tolima unguided from Valle de Cocora, easily reached by frequent shared jeeps from Salento. Camped night 1 at Laguna del Encanto (~4,000m), then hiked up the following morning. Glacier in bad shape, lots of crevasses. White-out on top. My hiking partner managed to make it to the summit without crampons (not advisable, really you should have full glacier gear for this climb). Slept at Finca La Primavera night 2, Tolima looked stunning, its top covered in a mushroom cloud at sunset. The following day hiked back down in time to catch the 12pm bus from Salento to Medellín.