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Niupeng Peak (Banjfeng)
Mountain/Rock

Niupeng Peak (Banjfeng)

 
Niupeng Peak (Banjfeng)

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Sichuan - Aba Prefecture, China, Asia

Lat/Lon: 31.15000°N / 102.54000°E

Object Title: Niupeng Peak (Banjfeng)

Elevation: 17762 ft / 5414 m

 

Page By: BobK

Created/Edited: Mar 22, 2004 / Feb 7, 2006

Object ID: 152439

Hits: 4522 

Page Score: 78.27%  - 9 Votes 

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Overview


Niupeng Peak is one of the first major peak up the Bipeng Valley from Lixian, Sichuan. At the head of the valley are Yangmantai and Huangho Feng and the pass over to Changpeng Valley as well as a number of other stunning peaks above 5500 m.

.Although closer to ShanghaiZi than Banji Peak, this peak has yet to be summitted; it poses a more serious technical challenge than the normal routes on Banji. One can climb the summit westward off of Banji to gain the summit, or cross the glacier lowerdown and attempt Nuipeng north face from the glacier, about a 250 m granite wall.

Alternatively, one could climb Niupeng from the west, although this is only feasible in winter when the lower falls and drainages in the upper basin are frozen.

Anyone with time and interest for putting up some alpine first ascents will be interested in visiting the area.

The Bipeng Valley has recently been opened up for tourism development, although little has been done to upgrade the area other than putting in a paved road and building a metal hut at about 3500 meters. There is presently no electricity in the valley and the care-takers at the hut were local tibetan farmers who spoke Chinese. The caretakers at ShanghaiZi have recently built a wooden guesthouse that can sleep up to twenty people. this will be your first choice in winter.

Getting There


Total driving time from Chengdu is 4.5 hours. Drive northwest from Chengdu towards Dujiangyan then take highway 317 towards Wenchuan and Maerkang. About 15 km west of Lixian, turn south into the lower Bipeng Valley. 10 Km up the road you come to a turn-off and a toll gate for Bipeng Valley (elevation 2259). Continue up the road, past the reception center 13.7 km beyond the gate for another 15 km to a white metal building with blue roof at Shanghai Zi. Niupeng Peak raises directly to the east.

You may choose to stay one night at the Guer gou Hot Springs Resort located 15.7km past the Bipeng turnoff on highway 317.

Red Tape


Technically you should contact the SMA in Chengdu before attempting first ascents of summits. There is a fee of USD2000.00 for new peaks at this altitude but there is no one in the valley to collect the fees.

As the develpment area is just being formed, fees will increase in future. We recently paid RMB30/person to enter Bipeng Valley, this increases to RMB60 during the high season.

When To Climb


In early March 2004. deep snow prevented us from hiking in what appeared to be the most straight forward route to the base of the high glacier. We had thigh deep snow for 2 hours up to a waterfall on the lower mountain and progress was slow, heavy new snow turned us around two days later.

Snowfall is heaviest in March/ April. High passes in the area are said to be clear of snow in June; this would be the same for the approach to Nuiping Peak. Any weather advice for climbing in the area would be greatly appreciated.

Camping


You can camp indoors or out at the Shanghai Zi Hut. We pitched our tent inside in the winter. Most likely necessary to set on camp for attempting even the easiest routes on these peaks. In 2005, the caretakers built a wooden guesthouse that is open year round. In winter we paid RMB40/person/night for room and two meals a day. They turn on a generator a few nights a week for light and to watch videos. The only heat was the kitchen stove where you will spend most of your freetime in winter.

We have heard the area becomes crowded during the May 1st and Oct. 1st holidays, otherwise you can expect to have the place to yourself. The development company is considering putting in electricity and serving food at hut and the reception center during peak seasons.

Mountain Conditions


You can expect pristine, pure alpine climbing but little beta or assistance if you run into trouble. Area is out of reach of cell phones. There are numbeous ice falls in the area and many lead to the upper basins and the unclimbed peaks above. The most stable weather seems to be in Jan/Feb with nightstime low temps around -10C. The weather can be quite changable the rest of the year.

Miscellaneous Info


There are very few people in the valley and you will be on your own once you leave the main road. Do not expect help in case of emergency. For longer, more involved peaks it is advisable to hire a guide, perhaps from Rilong, to help you arrange things locally. Cell phone coverage ends at the bottom of the valley before the turn-off from Lixian.

External Links


  • It's in Chinese, but this will change.

Additions and Corrections

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Viewing: 1-6 of 6    
BobKUntitled Comment

BobK

Hasn't voted

Spoke with Ma Yihua today and will update page accordingly. Thanks for your posting.


Bob
Posted Sep 19, 2004 2:09 am
BobKUntitled Comment

BobK

Hasn't voted

Thanks for the site info Chemist,





Just got back from 11 day trip just north of SGN area and, just as last year at this time, the weather was clear and cold (lows -10 to -6 C) and most importantly, very stable. Seems like winter is the best time to climb in the area. Perfect for ice climbng and we were also able to do multi-day mixed and rock routes. Other climbers have been rained and snowed off in March and August. I will update the section accordingly. Bob
Posted Feb 2, 2006 11:45 pm
vole1stUntitled Comment

vole1st

Hasn't voted

In May the 4th,7climbers of AAIC(a guiding company of Chengdu Sichuan) summited this peak.


the were guided by a Chengdu veteran guide Mao YIhua and a USA guide Jon Otto.


The altitude of this peak is 5430 M ,


this is the data of the summit


summit C Lat: 31 o 14' 41.1h C Long: 102 o 55' 39h C 5430M


more information in www.aaic.cn
Posted Aug 15, 2004 8:45 am
BobKUntitled Comment

BobK

Hasn't voted

Spoke with Ma Yihua today and will update page accordingly. Thanks for your posting.


Bob
Posted Sep 19, 2004 2:09 am
chemist_14Untitled Comment

Hasn't voted

If you go to this link (http://www.dreams-travel.com/sz_news/sz_tq.htm) you can find very basic daily weather reports for the SiGuNiang area. I am not sure what location this data is taken from, but SiGuNiang is 5th from the top. The other info in the first 5 columns is as follows:





Area General weather Rain / Snow / Fog Tempearture Humidity


Posted Jan 25, 2006 4:50 am
BobKUntitled Comment

BobK

Hasn't voted

Thanks for the site info Chemist,





Just got back from 11 day trip just north of SGN area and, just as last year at this time, the weather was clear and cold (lows -10 to -6 C) and most importantly, very stable. Seems like winter is the best time to climb in the area. Perfect for ice climbng and we were also able to do multi-day mixed and rock routes. Other climbers have been rained and snowed off in March and August. I will update the section accordingly. Bob
Posted Feb 2, 2006 11:45 pm

Viewing: 1-6 of 6    

Images

Telephoto of Niupengfeng from...Ma Yihua leading up lower ice...North face of Niupeng from C2...Telephoto shot taken from...Niupeng north face on stormy...Hut at Shanghai Zi, Bipeng...From Col to Niupeng Peak,...
summit of Banjifeng(or half...C2 in the glacier,there is a...Bob Keaty and Xiao Yang below...