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Normal Route Huascaran North 6655 m

Normal Route Huascaran North 6655 m

Normal Route Huascaran North 6655 m

Page Type: Route

Location: Ancash (Cordillera Blanca), Peru, South America

Object Title: Normal Route Huascaran North 6655 m

Route Type: Ice Climbing

Time Required: Expedition

Difficulty: AD+/D-

Route Quality: 
 - 2 Votes


Page By: Trabalon

Created/Edited: Mar 2, 2006 / Mar 2, 2006

Object ID: 177696

Hits: 7534 

Page Score: 73.93%  - 5 Votes 

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Huascaran North summit (6655 m) have been climbed last years for a few climbers. The majority of expeditions all around the world have been tried to climb the highest summit, the south (6768 m).

Since 2003 the Huascaran South normal route is impossible to climb due to the enormous cracks betwen camp2-summit.Since this year, the majority of expeditions try to climb the north summit (the route is the same until camp 2).

Cordillera Blanca is changing a lot recent years. There are peaks more difficult than past years, as Huascaran and Alpamayo. If you want to go there search actual information!!

Nowadays the normal route to South summit is Escudo route, a route more difficult than the last normal route (D+ and a bit dangerous and normally is not in good conditions).

We climbed north summit in 2004, and a friends of mine in 2005. Very few people have climbed south summit for Escudo Route in these two years.

Getting There

The same as Huascaran South. I wouldn't repeat the same. Look the summit south information.

Route Description

Graganta pass an nort summit
Since Camp 2 (6000 m) the route is the same to Huascaran south normal route. This camp is situated in a pass mountain between two Huascaran, a pass called la Garganta (see photo situated before this text)

The route to north summit go to north. We must search the easiest patch between ice blocks to go to summit.Normally there is a big crack in the first section of ascent, and after we go up slopes until 60-65º (you can see it in the photograph situated before this text).
Before arrive to summit there is an easiest snow ridge with a very few slope.
The summit 6655 meters, a few meters less than south summit. Incredible lanscapes if the day is good.

Essential Gear

Helmet, 1-2 ropes 8-9 mm, snow stakes, some ice screws, 2 piolet technician.

External Links


My history of ascent in spanish language:


La GargantaHuascaran C2Huascaran C1Huascaran C1Huascaran glacierCamp 2Huascaran basecamp
Nortt summit routeGraganta pass an nort summitAt the summit of Huascaran NorteView from moraine camp