OverviewHuascaran North summit (6655 m) have been climbed last years for a few climbers. The majority of expeditions all around the world have been tried to climb the highest summit, the south (6768 m).
Since 2003 the Huascaran South normal route is impossible to climb due to the enormous cracks betwen camp2-summit.Since this year, the majority of expeditions try to climb the north summit (the route is the same until camp 2).
Cordillera Blanca is changing a lot recent years. There are peaks more difficult than past years, as Huascaran and Alpamayo. If you want to go there search actual information!!
Nowadays the normal route to South summit is Escudo route, a route more difficult than the last normal route (D+ and a bit dangerous and normally is not in good conditions).
We climbed north summit in 2004, and a friends of mine in 2005. Very few people have climbed south summit for Escudo Route in these two years.
Getting ThereThe same as Huascaran South. I wouldn't repeat the same. Look the summit south information.
The route to north summit go to north. We must search the easiest patch between ice blocks to go to summit.Normally there is a big crack in the first section of ascent, and after we go up slopes until 60-65º (you can see it in the photograph situated before this text).
Before arrive to summit there is an easiest snow ridge with a very few slope.
The summit 6655 meters, a few meters less than south summit. Incredible lanscapes if the day is good.
Essential GearHelmet, 1-2 ropes 8-9 mm, snow stakes, some ice screws, 2 piolet technician.
My history of ascent in spanish language: