We walked/climbed to the glacier camp (camp 1) within three days from Musho via basecamp and the moraine camp. From camp 1 we started at about 6 a.m. to reach La Garganta (~5900m, camp 2). Before the canaletta we installed a aluminum ladder to cross a bigger crevasse. Reached camp 2 between 9 and 10 a.m. The next morning, we started the final climb at about 3:30 a.m. and reached the Norte-summit around 9 o'clock. From summit only limited view.
Overall good conditions: particularly knee-deep snow, relatively mild (for Huascaran-conditions ;-)) - no cold wind. Had luck with the weather. Back at camp 2 before noon. Would have liked to climb Sur, but too much effort and risk (if not even impossible) to get to the summit even on Normal-route of Sur. The weather deteriorated considerably during the next days. Next day after summit direct descent to basecamp and the next day back to Musho/Huaraz.