Normal route in N face of Batian Date Climbed: Jul 5, 2012
We start at midnight (afraid of afternoon storm) from Shiptons camp. On summit at sunrise (about 6:30) and back in the camp before noon. Perfect climbing conditions - just litle icy from 5000 m to top. Hardes part on Firmins tower may be 5 or 5+ UIAA(but we climb it in night).Rest is much easier max 4 UIAA in parts.
Normal Route NE side of Batian Date Climbed: Aug 11, 2007
After arriving from sea level just a few days before, progress was pretty slow. So we spent two nights on the mountain with a planned bivy in the ampitheatre at 4800m and unplanned bivy at 5100m on the way back down.
Climate change first hand Date Climbed: Sep 16, 2007
Supposedly the driest month of the year gave me rather solid rain/snow/hail for 4 days. Made it up to Firmin Tower (4990m, verified with GPS) on Batian before having to turn back due to snowfall, snow and heavy wet ropes slowing the progress down and endangering safe descent during daylight.
"As an adolescent I aspired to lasting fame, I craved factual certainty, and I thirsted for a meaningful vision of human life - so I became a scientist. This is like becoming an archbishop so you can meet girls."