Normal route-Val dei Cantoni

Approach

The starting point of the route is from Refuge Rosetta “Giovanni Pedrotti”, placed at 2578 meters. The best approach to the Rif. Rosetta is the small town of San Martino di Castrozza. By a two stage cableway you arrive fastly (do you need being fast ?) to Cima della Rosetta about 60 meters over the refuge and by only ten minutes you reach it. In summer the cableway is open from 08:00 to 17:00 (16:30 for going down). For updated information you can call the number +39-0439-68204. A good alternative, from my point of view, is taking the first stage of the cableway to Col Verde (1965 meters) and following the trail N°701 towards North by 01:30 hours you arrive to the refuge.

Route Description

The route here described was done the first time by A. and G. von Radiis in August 1902
Ascent
From the hut you follow the marked trail N° 716 towards Passo Bettega (2667 m). The trail goes having on your right side the rocky walls of Pale di San Martino (Cima Corona 2768 m). After the Passo Bettega the trail goes down to the Valle dei Cantoni that you have to ascend in the direction of Passo del Travignolo. Depending on the seasonal condition, the presence of snow fields is changing. Even at the end of July it is possible to find long portions of the trail covered by the snow (on late July 2004, the owner of the hut told me there has been never, along a 15 years period, so much snow in the area). This and this photo clearly show which could be the difference. The narrow valley becomes steeper and a little crevasse is passed on the left scrambling easily few meters of rocks. The crevasse is clearly identified by a written indication and if you descend by the same route, attention is required. The trail continues to the Forcella del Travignolo (2925 m) where the view on the steep couloir coming from the Travignolo glacier is fantastic. On your left a trail goes to the Fiamme Gialle bivouac (3005 m), corresponding to the end of the Ferrata Bolver-Lugli while your trail is on the right. Ascending the gravelly slope (sometimes snowy) you reach a saddle at 3050 meters. Turning on the left, following an easy rocky ridge (red sign), the route by few passages of I UIAA having the ridge on your left leads to the Cima Vezzana (3192 m).
For 610 m of difference in height you will need a bit more than 3:00 hours to reach the summit.


The descent is possible by the same route, but my suggestion is to continue the trip along Valle Strut and Valle delle Comelle, closing a fantastic ring.

Descent
From the summit, keeping your left on the NE side of the mountain, you descend towards the top of the Ferrata Gabitta d’Ignoti (a wooden pile helps you to find the starting point of it). This ferrata is not binding and at the same time the view on the rocky walls in front of you is completely gratifying. Campanile di Valle Strut (3049 m) and Cima dei Bureloni (3130 m) are on your left side. At the end the descent continues pleasant on the little glacier of the Valle Strut (no crampons were needed in July 2004) having on your left side the Ziroccole's walls and on your right the Comelle's walls. Overcome the Brunner bivouac (2667 m) and connect at about 2300 meters the trail N° 703 (Alta Via N° 2 - Sentiero delle Farangole) coming from Refuge Mulaz.
Turn right following the trail N°703 and going up-and-down, with sometimes the support of some ropes when the route is more exposed (no ferrata-kit needed).
The descent ends at a white-sandy plateau of the Valle delle Comelle where 300 meters in height are between you and the refuge Rosetta; you could be now rather tired. The trail goes up gently, reaching finally the refuge.
For the descent from the summit to the Refuge Rosetta about 3:30-4:00 hours are needed.

Essential Gear

Good shoes, crampons in June and early July, equipment for self assuring (ferrata-set) for the Ferrata Gabitta d’Ignoti.

Images

View Normal route-Val dei Cantoni Image Gallery - 5 Images