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Normal route ( Via Kugy-Orsolina )
Route

Normal route ( Via Kugy-Orsolina )

 
Normal route ( Via Kugy-Orsolina )

Page Type: Route

Location: Italy, Europe

Lat/Lon: 46.42600°N / 12.49300°E

Object Title: Normal route ( Via Kugy-Orsolina )

Route Type: Scrambling

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall

Time Required: A long day

Route Quality: 
 - 1 Votes
 

 

Page By: ganesh70

Created/Edited: Jun 28, 2007 / Jun 29, 2007

Object ID: 305811

Hits: 2282 

Page Score: 81.18%  - 13 Votes 

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Overview

 
Tacca del Crìdola
La Tacca del Crìdola

This is the route that Julius Kugy and the alpine guide Pacifico Orsolina used for their first ascent to the east summit in 1884.
It's a fun climb but shouldn't be underestimated, because has no protections of any kind. It requires secure step, good mountain experience and some climbing skills. It is also important to do this route with stable weather, in case of rain the descent can be very dangerous. Falling rocks moved by climbers ahead ( very rare anyway ) also can be very dangerous. It is well marked with red dots. It can be rated UIAA I/II with probably one short passage of II+. There are some spits on the way but I think are used for less experienced people, there's no need of any climbing equipment, only the helmet.
I think the local authorities and alpine clubs did the right thing not transforming this wonderful route in a popular via ferrata. You can still feel the wild spirit of this mountain and of the first pioneers that came here in the nineteenth century.


Approach

 
Spring in Val di Giàf
Going to Rifugio Giàf

Four kilometers after the village of Forni di Sopra ( going towards Passo della Mauria ) turn left following the indications for Rifugio Giàf. Another 2 kilometers and then park your car near a small bridge ( 1200 m ). From here take the marked path n°346 that will take you first to the hut ( 1400 m, 30/40 minutes ) and then to Forcella Scodovacca ( 2043 m, 1 hour 15 minutes ). All the way you can enjoy fantastic views to the towers of the Monfalconi di Forni and of the eastern branch of the Crìdola group. From Forcella Scodovacca turn right and follow the very steep path n°344 to Tacca del Cridola ( 2290 m , 45 minutes ). When Julius Kugy arrived here was so impressed by the spectacular scenery that said : " This view has no equal…".

Route Description

 
Magical view...
Monfalconi

Once arrived at Tacca del Crìdola follow the ledge on your left ( red dots ) until you reach a small notch. Here you have to climb a small face of 4 or 5 meters and then go on trough small ledges and rocky slopes. In this first part you can enjoy beautiful views of the group of towers of Torre Crìdola, of Torre Berti , Torre della Forcella Scodovacca and of course of the whole group of the Monfalconi di Forni. . At the end of this first section you'll find a steep ravine on your right that requires a little caution. Then there's a short tricky passage on the left, and after that exposed ledges will bring you, after another small face, to a shoulder. Follow the ledges and once reached the other side you'll be amazed by what you'll see in front you ( the huge dolomitic egg ) and below you ( the unbeliavable Ago del Crìdola ). After a few meters on your right you will find the "key" passage of the route, a quite slippery and smooth small diedral that needs some caution. Then after a steep and narrow ravine there's an exposed passage on the left, and after that, following the path trough an easy sheer rock face, you'll reach the panoramic summit ( 2581 m , 1 hour 15 minutes ). Great views of all the Carnic Alps and Prealps and of the Dolomites.
For the descent follow the same path to Tacca del Cridola ( 40 minutes ). From here you have two options: go back with the same route to Rifugio Giàf and to the car ( 1 hour 30 minutes ) or go down to the other side to La Cuna ( highly reccomended ) where you can stop and rest a little bit on the fields around Bivacco Vaccari ( 2050 m , 1 hour ) . From here the panorama it's simply unbeliavable.
Then go up to Forca del Crìdola ( 2117 m , 45 minutes ) and follow the marked path 340 that brings you straight to Rifugio Giàf and to the car ( 2 hours 15 minutes ).

Essential Gear

An Helmet and a good pair of trekking shoes

Images

La CunaNormal routeNormal routeNormal routeNormal routeNormal routeNormal route
Normal route