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Normal Route Via Scala di Sovena

 
Normal Route  Via Scala di Sovena

Page Type: Route

Location: Sardinia / Sardegna, Italy, Europe

Lat/Lon: 40.26240°N / 9.45910°E

Object Title: Normal Route Via Scala di Sovena

Route Type: Hike and Scramble

Time Required: Less than two hours

Difficulty: UIAA II

Route Quality: 
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Page By: Gangolf Haub

Created/Edited: Jun 2, 2004 / Jun 2, 2004

Object ID: 161108

Hits: 2112 

Page Score: 71.06%  - 1 Votes 

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Approach


On SP46, between Dorgali and Oliena turn south at a a sign leading to the chapel of Nostra Signora di Monserrata. Follow the country road for 100m, then turn left. After another 600m turn right and head directly for Punta Cusidore. At an intersection the road turns left again and you follow it for another 600m. Here the asphalt ends and a gravel road takes you to a little fount. From here start to look for spaces to park your car. The road goes on for another 500m before the ascent trail (still a dirt road) starts climbing steeply upwards to the right.

Route Description


Punta Cusidore photo_id=89846

Altitude gain: 880m
Duration: 1h 45min
Difficulty: II (short sections)
Trailhead: at the base of the mountain near Nostra Signora di Monserrata

The first part of the normal route heads along a gravel road until you come to a multiple intersection. The correct trail is the lowest one, marked with neon red dots and arrows (think textmarker). These signs will eventually lead you to the summit though in some parts of the ascent they are rather sparse. You'll reach a picnic area among some large rocks (warm up for climbing there with some bouldering practise).

From the picnic area a narrow trail leads up to the giant couloir, called Scala di Sovena. There is a lot of gravel and debris in this couloir so that every two steps up will result in one step back on the ascent. The best trail is hard to find - use your own best judgement. We found it best to take the left (east side) of the couloir and only just below the shoulder we traversed to the right. It is within this couloir that all serious climbs up the northwest pillar and the west face of Punta Cusidore start.

Once you reach the shoulder between Punta Cusidore and Punta sos Nidos the trail splits. One trail leads straight on into the valley beyond while the normal route first traverses a meadow and then aims for a gully in the south face of Punta Cusidore. In late May the meadows where covered with large thistles - bound to become much larger - you'll need chainmail later in the year :-).

Once at the base of the gully there is again a gravel stretch before several short climbing sections (grade II) lead you through the base of the summit block. The summit itself is rather broad and structured - you can find various places where to enjoy views and the huge drops into the plains below.

Essential Gear


In principle normal hiking gear is all you need. For the part above Scala di Sovena you'll better use long pants because of the thistles and boots with thick (I mean THICK) soles. The karst sections otherwise take their toll on your feet.

Images

Looking deep down the west...Punta sos Nidos from the top...Looking down the huge couloir...Climbing part of the normal...Climbing up the normal route...