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Normal Route

Normal Route

Normal Route

Page Type: Route

Location: Ecuador, South America

Object Title: Normal Route

Route Type: Rock and snow/ice Mainly during December-February

Time Required: Half a day

Difficulty: USA II, Rock 5.3, 70 degrees

Route Quality: 
 - 5 Votes


Page By: El Tigre Valderrama

Created/Edited: Jul 22, 2002 / Jan 22, 2003

Object ID: 156710

Hits: 4156 

Page Score: 75.19%  - 6 Votes 

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From the Refugio Nuevos Horizontes, approach the saddle between Ilinazas, and cross it, until you find other paths that can take you to the ridge on the right, which you will reach soon.

Route Description

Start climbing the scree and sand slope, and aim to gain the ridge early to avoid this very unpleasent climbing. Climb to the top of the ridge and head towards a big tower. Go around it on the right side and drop down, traverse this section called "El Paso de la Muerte" (potential snow/ice) and walk toward several gullies. Climb up one of them with few 5.3 moves, carefully looking for the easy way up, and get to the top.

Way down: use the same route.

Essential Gear

One rope if you need to feel comftable on the rock section. Crampons and ice axe plus some snow ice pro if route has snow or ice (mainly December to February)

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.


View looking down towards the...The hut. 30 May 2004The summit. 30 May 2004The traverse on the Normal...Nearing the traverse point....Trailhead at La Virgen. 30...On route to the hut. 30 May...
Short ups and downs during...Begining the summit gully....This is the normal route on...Beginning the standard route...Notice the two climbers in...Beginning the standard route...Coming up to the big tower....