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Normal Route

Normal Route


Page Type: Route

Location: Cordillera Real, Bolivia, South America

Lat/Lon: 16.2667°S / 68.1833°W

Object Title: Normal Route

Route Type: Snow and Ice, Glacier

Time Required: Most of a day

Difficulty: USA II/ AD /Ice+snow 50 degrees

Route Quality: 
 - 10 Votes


Page By: El Tigre Valderrama

Created/Edited: Aug 9, 2002 / Aug 9, 2002

Object ID: 156800

Hits: 7584 

Page Score: 72.45%  - 4 Votes 

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From Zongo Pass get on the East moraine ridge, and keep going up toward the summit. You will have to follow cairns or “ducks” that mark the route: the path goes to the end of the obvious moraine, then down to the rith on the side of this moraine and then back up and to the left, until you reach the start of the glacier and the first camp site.

In Zongo Pass you can ask for porters. The family who lives there also can provide this service and believe me, it is best to get this help. This will be a very appropriate service since the hike can be strenuous, mainly if you are not well acclimatized.

You can either camp here, or keep going toward the Campamento Argentino, or Second Camp. To reach the second camp from the first camp, get your glacier travel gear and get on the glacier. The route will go more or less straight up on the glacier. Stay on the left of a rock spur and aim to the top of the glacier which is just another small ridge. Cross this ridge and keep going up and right. Just when the glacier gets steep, it turs to the left and then you immediately arrive to Campamento Argentino. Look for a good place to camp. This is a glacier, and besides the altitude, (5450 mts or 17880 ft) the camp site includes crevasses, avalanches and seracs that collapse. Is it a good idea to stay here after all?

Route Description

The route starts properly here. From the Campamento Argentino go towards the east face and after some 400 m-500m go to the right (north-east-east), toward the ridge above. There may be a beschgrounf to negotite so try to spot the best pass. The solope here can be of some 70 degress, but is short. Once on top of this ridge go to your left and up, heading north-east, crossing the glacier for some 300 mts until you see a big slope that goes to the summit. From here you can either keep going straight toward the right until you reach the ridge or climb straight up the summit face to the summit. (the ridge is very exposed so you may want to go up at once)

The decent is the same just described. The whole effort may take 6-8 hours from Campamento Argentino, and some 8-10 hours from Camp one. The total altitude gain from Campamento Argentino is 600mts.

Essential Gear

Glacier Travel is a must. On ice axe, one piket to rap on the firts slope after the Campamento Argentino may be necessary if your party's levelof skill is not good enough to downclimb

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.

Additions and Corrections

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gilles debrayRoute Comment

Hasn't voted

If youé planning to climb Huayna Potosi you should contact Bolivian Journeys. We did and it is a really good company, their guides are amazing, ask for Eulogio, Vicente or Luis.
Posted May 29, 2003 8:06 am
HalikuSecond hut?


Hasn't voted

Isn't there a second hut now? Updated beta would be great. Cheers!
Posted Apr 8, 2008 9:15 pm

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