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normal route

normal route

normal route

Page Type: Route

Object Title: normal route

Route Type: classical normal climb

Time Required: One to two days

Difficulty: UIAA II, mostly walk-up

Route Quality: 
 - 6 Votes


Page By: Mathias Zehring

Created/Edited: Oct 12, 2002 / Oct 29, 2005

Object ID: 157136

Hits: 3967 

Page Score: 75.81%  - 6 Votes 

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Approach to Rufugio Venezia see main page!

overview picture

Route Description 1) Ball ledge

From the hut follow the path to Forcella Val d'Arcia to gain some height. After about 10 min red spots lead to the left along easy rocks to the beginning of the "Ball ledge". This ledge is easy to follow but very "airy". At the most famous part, the "Passo del Gatto", you have the choice either to creep or to climb on the outside very exposed. Normally a fixed rope helps over the next exposed step. The layer ends at the bottom of a huge steep slope of rubblestones.

2) upper part

Follow a path towards a rocky part where some layers of rock have to be climbed to reach the upper hollow where there used to be the glacier. Perhaps there is some snow left. The marked route leads to the left to the saddle between Spalla Sud and the summit. Climb the ridge easily to the summit.

Time from hut to summit is about 4-5 h.

Descend on the same route.

Essential Gear

For the normal route no special gear is necessary. On the recomended and on other maps there is a big glacier shown on the normal route. But this does not exist any more. So you can leave your crampos at home.

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.


On the Ball Ledge - Passo del...On the Ball ledge. Do you...at the beginning of the big...Descent on the normal route...View from Rifugio Venezia in...the upper part where there...The lower part of Monte Pelmo...