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Normal Route

 

Page Type: Route

Location: Valle d'Aosta, Italy, Europe

Lat/Lon: 45.55810°N / 7.28590°E

Object Title: Normal Route

Route Type: Basic Snow/Glacier Climb

Time Required: A few days

Difficulty: 2+

Route Quality: 
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Page By: lutjebroek

Created/Edited: Oct 29, 2002 / Oct 29, 2002

Object ID: 157266

Hits: 1316 

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Approach


Starting point: Eaux-Rousses (1650 m). You can pick up a trail here, which leads into the National Parc. You climb in a narrow valley, until you cross a mountainriver. From there, the real ascent begins. The path becomes more steep. After about 15 minutes you reach the first snow. Just cross it. Here, there is no path anymore. Look up to the mountains to the east. There you see a V. This is the passage. Climb there. Then you're on Col Lauson (3296 meters). Climb down, the first part is quite difficult, because of loose stones mixed with ice. Risk of Avalanche. You can follow the ridge on nearly the same altitude. After 30 minutes you reach ice and snow again, there you can get down. Dangerous descending! After 1,5 hour you're at the bottom of the valley. Here is a paht again, follow it to the east. After 2 hours, you reach Rifugio Sella (about 2500 meter). Stay here to sleep. It was a long day!

Route Description


Leave from Rifugio Sella. Cross the river. Walk southwards. Here the first hill arises. Climb it. From there, you can see the summit (see picture!). Focus on it, so you can decide the route, because it changes every year because of rock and landslides. Then, suddenly, after about 1 hour you're on the base of the glacier. Get on it, and go towards the icewall you can see from there. After about 1 hour you reach the bottom of it. It's height is about 100 meters, 55 degrees steep. If you're on top of it, you see the summit on your right hand. Walk towards it, following the ridge. After about 2 hours you reach the end of the glacier. From here it is only some light rock-climbing. About 100 meters. Climb it. You're on the summit! Descendings:
Normal Route: Just the same as climbing it.
2nd route: Climb down from the rocks. From there, go north-east. After about 40 minutes, you reach the end of the glacier, here is only a morene. Walk all the way down the morene, until you reach the valley. 'Abseil' 30 meters. From there, go straight down (not easy, but I don't know the English word for it). Here you reach the path again. Follow it all the way down, into the vally. If you reach it, go north. After 3-4 hours you reach Villeneuve, from where you can take a bus to Cogne.

Essential Gear


Take Crampons and ice-axes. Also rope! And most important: take liters of water with you. Once you reach the glacier, there is no water anymore, until you are halfway down! You'll become VERY thirsty if you don't (I didn't take enough water with me). The 2nd route down is a very long trip. We left the hut at 4 o'clock in the morning I think, and we reached Villeneuve at 7 O├žlock in the evening.

Miscellaneous Info


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