Welcome to SP!  -
Normal Route
Route
Contribute 
 
Geography
Parents 
Routes
 

Normal Route

 
Normal Route

Page Type: Route

Location: Dolomites, Italy, Europe

Lat/Lon: 46.61280°N / 11.77350°E

Object Title: Normal Route

Route Type: Scramble

Time Required: Less than two hours

Difficulty: II (III in Patches)

Route Quality: 
 - 0 Votes
 

 

Page By: Gangolf Haub

Created/Edited: Mar 19, 2004 / Mar 19, 2004

Object ID: 160444

Hits: 2348 

Page Score: 73.06%  - 3 Votes 

Vote: Log in to vote

 

Approach


Take the Brenner motorway A22 to the exit of Waidbruck (Ponte Gardena). Turn onto S242 east either to St. Ulrich (Ortisei) or St. Christina. From St. Ulrich you can take the cablecar to Seceda (2518m), the westernmost summit of the Geisslergroup. From St. Christina you can take the lift to Col Raiser (2102) on Cisles Alpe. From both cable cars you need to hike to Col de Coi (2301m), where the trail into Wasserrinnental (Val Salieres) starts.

There is an approach to Forca Salieres from Villnöß / Val di Funes in the North through the northern gorge of Val Salieres but that is more difficult than the Furchetta Normal Ascent istself (duration 1h 30min, until you reach Forca Salieres, difficulty mostly III).

Route Description


Altitude gain: 400m from Forca Salieres, 1000m from Col Raiser)
Duration: th from Forca Salieres, 2h 30min from Col Raiser)
Difficulty: mostly II but III in some parts
Trailhead: Col Raiser

The normal route to Furchetta is a relatively easy climb mostly along ledges and through couloirs, both of which are rather exposed, however. There is a lot of debris along the way but the trail is marked by cairns in many places.

From the Col take the right (eastern) trail (signs: Ferrata, Klettersteig) and head for the deep gorge between Sass Rigais and Furchetta, which is called Wasserrinnental (Val Salières). The trail turns right to the base of Furchetta and the winds upwards to Forca Salières (2696m) which separates the two giants.

To the left is the entry to the eastern ferrata onto Sass Rigais. To climb Furchetta turn right. The ascent starts with a 10m chimney on top of which you turn left (north) and head directly for the western summit ridge. The ascent uses several short ledges and then a couloir which again is marked.

Follow the ridge some 25m and then leave it to the right into a level ledge/gully. This leads into a steep couloir where you have to climb a high step and finally take the remainder of the summit ridge towards the top.

Essential Gear


Climbing gear: rope and harness. Don't forget the helmet since there is a lot of debris on the trail Beware of other climbers ahead of you. Take care, especially while descending.

Images

Schematic of the Normal Route...Furchetta North Face. Dülfer...