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Normal route

 
Normal route

Page Type: Route

Location: Lombardia, Italy, Europe

Lat/Lon: 46.49240°N / 10.54890°E

Object Title: Normal route

Route Type: Basic snow/glacier climb

Time Required: Half a day

Difficulty: PD

Route Quality: 
 - 4 Votes
 

 

Page By: Silvio1973

Created/Edited: Jul 23, 2005 / Aug 15, 2006

Object ID: 165954

Hits: 2186 

Page Score: 76.66%  - 7 Votes 

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Approach

The climb can start both from the "Refugio Borletti" or "Refugio V Alpini" (faster from this last one). In both cases the climb implies glacier crossing and it is therefore not recommended to be done alone.

Route Description

From "Rifugio Borletti"
Start the climb from the hut. The glacier (Unter Ortler Ferner) starts at 2,500 m, about one hour of hike from the hut. At this point follow the glacier up on the left trying to avoid an endless number of crevasses; at 3,100 m the glacier is flat again. Head the Ortlerpass direction SE and cross the pass (about 45° ice). Once on the top (3,353 m) head for the shelter "Bivacco Città di Cantù". There you might decide to leave here the not essential gear and climb lighter the last part of the route. The last part of the climb is an easy but steep snow field (watch out for potential crevasses) and arrive finally on a on easy (but exposed) route on loose rocks that leads to the summit.

From "Rifugio V Alpini"
Climb the glacier direction NW for about 50 minutes and following the countour of the glacier get to the base of Monte Zebru (then follow the same directions as from "Rifugio Borletti"). The final part of the ice field is quite steep and hence there are plenty of crevasses, expecially in July and August. Try also, when crossing the glacier (Ghiacciaio dello Zebru), to be fare from the base of the Thurwieser as there are continously falling rocks coming from this mountain.

Essential Gear

Essential gear for glacier crossing (crampons, rope, ice axe).

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.

Images

Shelter "Bivacco Citta\' di...July 2005 - Last step to the...