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Normal route

Normal route

Normal route

Page Type: Route

Location: Italy, Europe

Lat/Lon: 46.41500°N / 12.49900°E

Object Title: Normal route

Route Type: Scrambling

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall

Time Required: Most of a day

Difficulty: max UIAA II+

Route Quality: 
 - 1 Votes


Page By: ganesh70

Created/Edited: Sep 6, 2007 / Nov 9, 2007

Object ID: 333520

Hits: 1897 

Page Score: 81.18%  - 13 Votes 

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South west face
The sheer rock face

What a wonderful normal route! It can satisfy the expert hiker but also the alpinist that can find more difficult variants. It's not long or too exposed and can be rated UIAA I and II with two passages of UIAA II+. The views are simply fantastic and get better and better while you go up until you reach the summit from where you can enjoy a spectacular panorama.
This mountain have vertical walls and imposing towers on almost all sides, but on the south-west side the first alpinists that climbed it found an "easy" way from the ravine that goes down from Forcella Alfonso, that became the normal route for the main summit ( Torre Nord ).
This place is very wild and very few people climb this mountain every year. The route is marked only with rare cairns ( there was also some red paint but is almost completly erased, so it's not much useful ) and is very easy to lose the right way especially in the first part, so it's better go slowly and be careful on every passage. No particular gear is required, but the helmet and a rope for less experienced people can be very useful.

Getting there

Forcella del Cason
Forcella del Cason

There are four possible approaches:

1) From Rifugio Giàf trough Forcella del Cason: From the hut take the steep path n°361/342 and follow the indications for bivacco Marchi-Granzotto and Anello di Bianchi. Then leave the second on your right and go on trough the steep and strenous ravine between the group of Cima dei Pecoli and the three towers ( Torrione, Torre Gilberti and Torre di Forni ). From the notch go down to the red bivouac in the middle of Val Monfalcon di Forni and then again up to Forcella da las Busas and Forcella Monfalcon di Forni ( 3 hours ).
This is probably is the best approach for the amazing views but is long and tiring, so is advisable only for people in very good shape.

Monfalcon di Forni
On the way to Bivacco Marchi-Granzotto

2) From Rifugio Giàf through Forcella da las Busas: From the hut take the path n°354 to Forcella Scodovacca. Behind Torre di Forni you'll see the huge ravine that comes down from Monfalcon di Forni. Turn left and try to follow the red-white marks until you reach Forcella da las busas ( 2 hours ).
This approach would be probably the fastest but the trail is almost completely disappeared so now it has become dangerous because the ravine is very slippery. Not advisable, but what a view to the Crìdola group!

3) From Rifugio Padova: From the hut take the path n°346 to Forcella Scodovacca, then turn right following the path n°342 to val d'Arade and Cadin d'Arade for Forcella Monfalcon di forni ( 2 hours and thirty minutes ).
This is the fastest and less hard approach, with great views to the groups of Toro, Scala, Monfalconi di Montanàia and Monfalconi di Cimoliana.

4) From Rifugio Pordenone through Forcella del Leone: From the hut take the path n°349 to Forcella del Leone that goes up through Val Monfalcon di Cimoliana. From the notch go down to the Marchi-Granzotto bivouac and then again up to Forcella da las busas and Forcella Monfalcon di forni ( 3 hours ). Quite long with beautiful views to the Meluzzo branch, to the whole Cresta del leone and to the Monfalconi di Cimoliana group.

Route Description

The magnificent Torre Crìdola
Torre crìdola

From Forcella Monfalcon di Forni ( 2309 m ) follow the path ( not marked ) that goes towards north-west ( Cadin d'Arade side ) until you reach the base of a small tower. Then go down for 20-30 meters and then up on the right following the ravine between Torre Alfonso and Monfalcon di Forni. Then you have to be very careful to turn right ( cairns ) following a very slippery and steep path that takes you at the base of a small wall. Here you have two options: clibing the chymney ( UIAA III-, very fun to climb ) or the small wall on the right ( UIAA II+ ). Once reached the top of the wall the path is more easy to follow and goes up through easy ledges and a sheer rock face ( short passages of UIAA I and I+ ). At the base of the Main Tower ( Torre Nord ) there'a a wonderful natural terrace from where you can stop for a while and enjoy the views to the Giàf group, the Crìdola group, Monfalconi di Cimoliana group and of Monte Pelmo and Monte Civetta that dominate all the panorama to the west. Then the path goes up gently until the base of a dihedral ( UIAA II+, red arrow ). At the end of it you'll be on the small top of the main tower of Monfalcon di Forni ( 1 hour, summit book hidden under some stones inside an old candy box ).
Go down following the same path of the ascent ( 45 minutes ).

Essential Gear

An helmet and a short rope for less experienced can be useful.


Monfalcon di Forni