sergejf - May 9, 2019 12:58 pm Date Climbed: Jun 1, 2018
Beautiful sunrise!
From a mountaineering standpoint, the route is a hike on compact snow, made harder by the altitude. The summit gets packed as more parties get to the top. The huts on the way afford a beautiful view of the mountains.
climbvr - Feb 18, 2019 4:59 am Date Climbed: Feb 17, 2019
Summit in a blizzard, but a beautiful descent
Left from high camp very late and, although offseason, it was the only day with decent conditions for a week so the summit and route up the final ridge were quite crowded. Conditions cleared on the way down and we descended slowly to have the route to ourselves from Argentino camp onwards.
Climbed with partner Jon. Tons of climbers on first rocky camp. Next day went to Argentino camp and found it empty. Summited the next day with only 1 party in front of us. Went straight up instead of the ridge. Alone at summit! Found wallet belonging to Swiss person. Took back to our hostel and gave to manager to return to swiss embassy. nice to have peace and quiet for once.
Niederbayer - Aug 10, 2008 11:49 pm Date Climbed: Mar 2, 2004
My first 6000 meter
looked at it from the airport for more than a year at least three times a months - so had to climb it
Kenneth.alone - Apr 16, 2008 2:53 am Date Climbed: Apr 14, 2005
Nice route
We pushed so hard for hours, then beat the stupid sun to the top by almost an hour, its a little shorter climb than we thought. nice place and some nice steeps.
AlexeyD - Jul 18, 2007 6:16 pm Date Climbed: Jun 10, 2007
first 6000-meter
It was surprisingly technical for such a popular route. The bergschrund crossing involves making a move out of a snow hole with near-vertical walls with a potenetially nasty fall into the schrund (two ice tools help a lot, esp. for the leader), and the final 200-meter face is pretty sustained 45-50 degree snow/ice climbing, again two tools help a lot, although it can be done with just one.
sergejf - May 9, 2019 12:58 pm Date Climbed: Jun 1, 2018
Beautiful sunrise!From a mountaineering standpoint, the route is a hike on compact snow, made harder by the altitude. The summit gets packed as more parties get to the top. The huts on the way afford a beautiful view of the mountains.
climbvr - Feb 18, 2019 4:59 am Date Climbed: Feb 17, 2019
Summit in a blizzard, but a beautiful descentLeft from high camp very late and, although offseason, it was the only day with decent conditions for a week so the summit and route up the final ridge were quite crowded. Conditions cleared on the way down and we descended slowly to have the route to ourselves from Argentino camp onwards.
Groundswell - Mar 18, 2009 11:39 pm
LonelinessClimbed with partner Jon. Tons of climbers on first rocky camp. Next day went to Argentino camp and found it empty. Summited the next day with only 1 party in front of us. Went straight up instead of the ridge. Alone at summit! Found wallet belonging to Swiss person. Took back to our hostel and gave to manager to return to swiss embassy. nice to have peace and quiet for once.
Niederbayer - Aug 10, 2008 11:49 pm Date Climbed: Mar 2, 2004
My first 6000 meterlooked at it from the airport for more than a year at least three times a months - so had to climb it
kabernicola - Jun 6, 2008 5:11 pm
first 6000nice and short...
Kenneth.alone - Apr 16, 2008 2:53 am Date Climbed: Apr 14, 2005
Nice routeWe pushed so hard for hours, then beat the stupid sun to the top by almost an hour, its a little shorter climb than we thought. nice place and some nice steeps.
AlexeyD - Jul 18, 2007 6:16 pm Date Climbed: Jun 10, 2007
first 6000-meterIt was surprisingly technical for such a popular route. The bergschrund crossing involves making a move out of a snow hole with near-vertical walls with a potenetially nasty fall into the schrund (two ice tools help a lot, esp. for the leader), and the final 200-meter face is pretty sustained 45-50 degree snow/ice climbing, again two tools help a lot, although it can be done with just one.
fossana - Apr 8, 2007 10:58 pm
NRJune ?, 2003
Nice pics; OK climb.