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Normal (west) ascent

 
Normal (west) ascent

Page Type: Route

Location: Julian Alps, Slovenia, Europe

Lat/Lon: 46.43510°N / 13.68810°E

Object Title: Normal (west) ascent

Route Type: Mountaineering, Scrambling

Season: Summer, Fall

Time Required: Most of a day

Rock Difficulty: Class 4

Difficulty: UIAA I-II

Route Quality: 
 - 4 Votes
 

 

Page By: Vid Pogachnik

Created/Edited: Dec 28, 2004 / Mar 6, 2006

Object ID: 163326

Hits: 1679 

Page Score: 72.08%  - 2 Votes 

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Rating the Route (by Hiking Standards)

0. General: 1108m (Tamar) or 650m (Log) to 2376m, partly marked and secured rock route. The upper 700m not marked, ex secured route, steel ropes and pegs unreliable. UIAA I-II.
1. Effort: 1500m (from Tamar) or 1720m (from Log), 5-6h.
2. Power: 3 - medium.
3. Psyche: 4 - hard (exposed, bad rock, rockfall danger).
4. Orientation: 3 - medium (you need some care just before entering the W face).

Approach

 
A self-made map of Kotova...
Kotova spica and its routes

See the main page how to reach the joint point (1680m) at the end of Koritnica. One option is from Planica valley, via Kotovo sedlo (saddle), the other one is from Log pod Mangartom through Koritnica valley.

Route Description

On the upper part of screes the marked path turns left (towards bivouac), but we turn on an easy shelf towards right. Behind the edge we turn up and ascend by the left side of a ravine. Somewhere in the middle we notice steel ropes which lead us towards right (a long and very exposed crossing) - just to the wall. Ropes are very unsafe, just every peg is unstable! Above all, the ledge is narrow, covered with round stones and the rock is bad. On the other side we continue upwards and then diagonally towards left on the notch (also by a help of steel ropes). It all shows how this secured route was destroyed by avalanches. From the notch to the summit it's easier. The route mainly follows the ridge there's only one harder vertical step which we avoid by a narrow ledge towards right (very exposed).

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.

Images

Kotova spica from south, from...Summer picture of Kotova...Kotova spica summit view...Jalovec from north - from Kotova spicaA self-made map of Kotova...Western Julian Alps from...The notch Rob nad Zagacami...