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Normal (West) Route
Route

Normal (West) Route

 
Normal (West) Route

Page Type: Route

Location: Carnic Alps, Italy, Europe

Lat/Lon: 46.46740°N / 13.16230°E

Object Title: Normal (West) Route

Route Type: Mountaineering

Season: Summer, Fall

Time Required: Half a day

Rock Difficulty: Class 4

Difficulty: UIAA II

Route Quality: 
 - 2 Votes
 

 

Page By: Vid Pogachnik

Created/Edited: Oct 22, 2005 / Mar 3, 2006

Object ID: 167212

Hits: 1743 

Page Score: 71.06%  - 1 Votes 

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Rating The Route (By Hiking Standards)

0. General: From cca 1860m to 2065m, exposition W. Marked, but not protected. Difficulties don't exceed UIAA II+ degree (one detail, mostly I-II). For less experienced a rope can be useful.
1. Effort: cca 200m (from the parking place above Val Aupa cca 1340m). From the Portonat notch you will need some 30min, from Rif. Grauzaria good 2h and from the parking place above Val Aupa 3h 30min.
2. Power: 4 - Hard
3. Psyche: 4 - Hard
4. Orientation: 2 - Easy.

Approach

The final part of the ascent starts on Portonat (notch), 1860m. This can be reached by the following variants:
- From Val Aupa. Parking place above Aupa valley, 727m, Rif. Grauzaria, 1250m, Portonat (notch), 1860m. To the hut easy, marked path (No. 437), 1h 15min, from the hut through the gorge to Portonat steep, tiresome marked path (No. 444).
- From villages: Grauzaria, 516m, Borgo di Mezzo, 832m, and Morolz, 855m. You reach the Portonat notch by marked paths No. 444 and No. 418a in some 3h 30min to 4h.

Route Description

Immedially above the Portonat notch you enter the summit rocks over the hardest climbing detail. A few meters high vertical step offers good rock to hold, but you are leaning a bit out of the wall, so the climb is rated UIAA II or UIAA II+ maximum. Exposition here is neglectable, so the step is easier psychically. Above the first step a narrow ledge leads you towards left. The exposition is rising quickly, but climbing itself does not exceed UIAA I degree. The route is good marked and goes again straight up and around the corner. In steep sections you gain altitude, crossing towards left you approach the summit. Soon the route goes around the next rocky ridge by another ledge, crosses slopes towards left again and so reaches the summit ridge. There it turns up directly, again climbs over a few harder details (not more than UIAA II-) and finally over a quite exposed summit ridge reaches the highest point.

To Portonat notch you descend by the same route.

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.

Images

Morning picture of Creta GrauzariaDescending by the summit...Creta Grauzaria from below...The gorge to Portonat notch....Creta Grauzaria from the...A few sections of the summit...The final section of the path...
Entering the long and steep...In the gorge to Portonat...