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Route

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Page Type: Route

Location: Central Alps, Italy, Europe

Lat/Lon: 46.47860°N / 10.56850°E

Object Title: Normal

Route Type: Ice climb - mixed

Time Required: Half a day

Difficulty: PD-AD

Route Quality: 
 - 10 Votes
 

 

Page By: peterpyr

Created/Edited: Jan 10, 2002 / Jan 10, 2002

Object ID: 156080

Hits: 3376 

Page Score: 75.81%  - 6 Votes 

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Approach


Start from Pizzini Hut, then walk on "vedretta del Gran Zebru" glacier, and start climb (3200 m) on a large coloir leading to shoulder.

Route Description


From the hut start dir NNW walking on moreines for about 1 hour.
Reach a tongue of glacier leading directly to the mountain (dir N) leaving on the right a red rocks pillar, approaching the base of a colouir x shaped coming from the shoulder on the east side of the mountain (3200 m) 1 hour.
Climb the colouir up to the shoulder 3500 m steepness upt o 45-50 deg. max., 45 min. (dir N)
From the shoulder straight to the summit climing on the side of the rocks at your left (dir NW) until an open field with less stepness (3700 m) 45 min
From the field cross climbing to N to the north side of the fiel, looking for another small colouir leading to the final ridge 3800 m steepness upt o 45-50 deg. max.
Follow the ridge (dir W) until you're on the summit.
Few rules:
1) Do climb it early, the mountains face catch the first sun, and the snow will soft soon
2) Descend early for the same reason
3) Consider carefully the presence of other teams above you and act in a way to avoid to be involved in a not nice "group slide"

Essential Gear


This may be a very serious climb (up to AD) depending on ice conditions, consider the use of:
1) difficult glacier equipment
2) helmet
3) some ice screws

Climbing attitude


1) be ready to face a steep descent often needing a good crampons technique and/or a sticky snow
2) be careful going "ensamble", and be ready to perform some length with a fixed safety points
3) consider the weather, it's difficult to get lost, it's easy to have strong wind when you need to be well balanced, lightning may be very dangerous

Miscellaneous Info


If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.

Images

Gran Zebrù Val CedecA perfect summer dayThis is the south slope of the normal route.Koenig-Spitze (Gran Zebru)...Normal Route to Gran Zebru<br />
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