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Page Type: Route

Location: Friuli Venezia Giulia, Italy, Europe

Route Type: Rock climb

Time Required: Most of a day

Difficulty: III/IV UIAA

Route Quality: 
 - 4 Votes
 

 

Page By: fabrizior

Created/Edited: Oct 4, 2004 / Oct 4, 2004

Object ID: 162376

Hits: 1347 

Page Score: 78.25% - 4 Votes 

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Approach


From Rifugio Pordenone in 2 hours, track nr 353 of Val Montanaia.
The Bivacco Perugini, close to Campanile, is not in good conditions, will be disinstalled and perhaps not replaced.
Info at Club Alpino Italiano, Sez. xxxOttobre - Trieste tel +39 040635500
e mail: cai@xxxottobre.it

Route Description


Normal route – South and West face, 290 m, 9 pitches, - III/IV

From the right side of south wall to the centre of the wall, climb a logical series of chimneys and cracks up to south/east edge. Following to the left an easy ledge up at “pulpito Cozzi”, climb directly the “fessura Cozzi” for few metres and then traverse 10 m to the south/west edge ( very exposed) continue horizontally on the west face until a small niche (good belay). From this niche climb directly the von Saar overhanging chimney reaching the “Ballatoio”, wide ledge round the summit spire of Campanile. Traverse 10 m to the left and climb the last 70 m (not difficult) until the top and …ring the bell!

Essential Gear


Two ropes 40 m and normal gear.

Miscellaneous Info


If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.

Images

Campanile di Val MontanaiaCampanile di Val MontanaiaThe "fessura Cozzi". October...Campanile di Val MontanaiaThe central part of south...The south/east edge and...
The traverse on west face....The normal route on the south...Campanile di Val MontanaiaRifugio Pordenone m 1249....The wall of Croda Cimoliana,...Campanile di Val Montanaia



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