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North Couloir aka Feather Couloir

North Couloir aka Feather Couloir

North Couloir aka Feather Couloir

Page Type: Route

Location: California, United States, North America

Lat/Lon: 37.32600°N / 118.777°W

Object Title: North Couloir aka Feather Couloir

Route Type: ice climbing

Time Required: Half a day

Difficulty: Class 4 - 5, AI2, WI3

Route Quality: 
 - 5 Votes


Page By: Craig Peer

Created/Edited: Sep 27, 2002 / Sep 27, 2002

Object ID: 157016

Hits: 4949 

Page Score: 72.07%  - 2 Votes 

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From the upper Royce Lake, the couloir is right of ( and hidden behind ) the North Face. Hike up the drainage from the lake. The route is obvious.

Route Description

The ice gully has no bershrund to speak of and is easily entered. The left side can be climbed ( steeper ) as can the right side ( easier ). Rock belays are easily established. This gully is 700' and up to 60 degrees. From it's top turn left and climb class 3 - 4 rock for 70' to the gentle summit ridge.

Descent - down climb class 2 - 3 ledges and scree on the southeast slope. Climb a nasty sand cone to the notch between Feather Peak and Mount Royce. Downclimb a 35 degree ice gully back to upper Royce Lake.

Essential Gear

Ice tools, crampons, helmet, rope and a light rock / ice rack.

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.


Leading last pitch (# 6) on FeatherClimbing in Feather CouloirEntering Feather Couloir with...Feather CouloirFeather CouloirClimbing Feather CouloirClimbing in Feather Couloir