From the North Lake trail head off of Hwy 168, hike up the Lamarck Lakes trail to Upper Lamarck Lake. Mount Lamarck's North Face and the ice gully are obvious to the southwest. Cross the huge moraine past a glacial tarn to the lake and pocket glacier at the base of the North Face.
Climb the right hand gully on the left side of the face ( other guide books say the left hand gully on the right side of the face but we found picking the correct one fairly easy ). Cross the small bershrund and follow the 900' - 1000' 40 - 45 degree gully to the top. Descend via Lamarck Col and the cross country trail.
Ice climbing tools and crampons, and a helmet. Most experienced ice and snow climbers will be able to easily solo this climb. If you're new to ice climbing and it's late in the season, a light rock rack and a few screws may be helpful along with a rope.
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