Climbed with SMG. LOOOOONG Day with plenty of talus and difficult routefinding to and from the climb - make sure you understand and know all the complexities of this area. The climb itself was 40 - 45 degrees, with great rock pro, mostly firm snow and a little ice, melted out the last 300 feet. Still plenty of snow this year.
My wayward slow ass took "forever" to reach the base of the couloir and I nearly called off the climb at noon, somehow I couldn't deal with clambering back over the boulder field with tail tucked, so I climbed the damn thing. Most interesting and exhausting trip up with a little bit of everything - postholing, frozen snow, transitioning ice, bulletproof ice, mixed climbing and finale of dry rock. Was I jazzed to see the summit!!...and my truck 13 hours after I left it. :/
"As an adolescent I aspired to lasting fame, I craved factual certainty, and I thirsted for a meaningful vision of human life - so I became a scientist. This is like becoming an archbishop so you can meet girls."