North-East Ridge from Zwischen D'Köpf

Overview

Elferspitz / Cima Undici as seen from the cirque Zwischen d'Köpf

The north-eastern Route to Elferspitz / Cima Undici is far less popular than the one through Haiderscharte / Forcola della Muta in the south. Part of the route is hidden in a valley between Zehnerkopf and Grubenkopf, which can be reached only by crossing a small saddle. Thus it is invisible from the trailhead at the Schöneben / Bellpiano Ski Runs. Moreover, from this side there are no signs for Elferspitz / Cima Undici, all point to Zehnerkopf / Cima Dieci.

The ascent along the north-east ridge / north-east face (the ridge is so wide you can call it a face) is very steep. Moreover, the underlying rock is brittle and covered by scree so that difficult situations can occur. Being a north face route, often the path is hidden underneath a snow cover at which times the route can get dangerous.

Getting There

The main page describes how you can reach the village of Rojen and the Schöneben ski runs. In summer you may not but can use the road to the upper station of the ski-lift.

Route Description

  - Start altitude: 2087m
  - Summit altitude: 2926m
  - Prevailing exposure: N
  - Type: Hike and Scramble
  - Protection: None

Effort: 1000m

Power: 2 - Long and steep

Psyche: 2 - Exposed and brittle

Difficulty: 1 - Easy

Orientation: 1 - Marked and easy

Zehnerkopf as seen from the Schöneben ski runs. The route runs to the left of the mountain

From the Schöneben / Bellpiano ski lift follow the marked trail in direction Haideralm / Malga della Muta. After a few steps a sign points to Zehnerkopf / Cima Dieci. The trail follows the maintenance road of the upper ski lift all the way up the slow. It heads onwards above the ski lift for some 200m before turning left sharply right underneath the Zehnerkopf north face. The path heads back east, surrounding Zehnerkopf in a quarter circle before heading up to the saddle between Zehnerkopf and Grubenkopf. In this section don't follow the Zehnerkopf signs but stay in the valley underneath.

Zehnerkopf and Grubenkopf with the saddle through which the route runs

From the saddle follow the narrow hidden valley to the east of Zehnerkopf's south ride. The valley ends, weher the south ridge route joins from above and heads into a large cirque, called "Zwischen d'Köpf", the cirque which is surrounded by the three mountains of the Rojen sundial. Here follow the marks which lead up to the Elferspitz north-east ridge from the east.

Zehnerkopf south ridge from Zwischen d'Köpf

This final part of the ascent heads across scree covered steep rocks and is the most difficult and exposed part of the climb. The ridge / face is 300m high and close to the top exposure gets significant.

Essential Gear

Hiking gear is sufficient. In snow and ice conditions, which can occur even in late Spring or early autumn crampons might be needed.

Additions and CorrectionsPost an Addition or Correction

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rgg - Jan 28, 2016 7:50 am - Hasn't voted

NE ridge

While the approach is from the north, from Zwischenköpf the summit is gained by the NE ridge. There is a different route that reaches the summit by the NW ridge instead, over the Zwölferkopf.

Gangolf Haub - Jan 28, 2016 10:32 am - Hasn't voted

Re: NE ridge

You're right about the NE ridge. As for the NW ridge route: I have no doubt that it exists but I didn't intend to give a complete route overview. Rather, I described the routes that I hiked myself.

rgg - Jan 28, 2016 2:23 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: NE ridge

I didn't explore the NW ridge either. Though I considered bagging Zehner, Elfer and Zwölfer, I also wanted to descend to St Valentin, and doing all that would make it a very long day indeed. I settled for Zehner and Elfer. Besides, the Zwölfer isn't much more than a small bump on the Elfer NW ridge.

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Images

View North-East Ridge from Zwischen D'Köpf Image Gallery - 6 Images