Approach-From Anaconda Drive West on Hwy. 1 to Georgetown Lake (14 miles)
-Take a Left at Georgetown lake and drive alongside of it until the road turns into dirt, it's another 13 miles of dirt road to East Fork Reservoir at 5,764 feet.
-Once at the East Fork Reservoir take a right and drive over the damm, it's YET another 13 miles of bumpy dirt road up to the trailhead which is at the end of the road so you can't miss it.
-The trailhead is at an elevation of 7,149 feet,and starts off as Trail 24.
-After hiking on the trail for 1/4 mile you will cross into the Wilderness boundary and soon after, you will hit your first trail junction. Keep to the LEFT and your now on Trail 111. If you take a right you can still reach the destination but it is about one hour longer of a trek in and some of the elevation you have climbed will go to waste going down Warren Pass.
-Now hiking South on Trail 111 after 2.3 miles you will hit another trail junction at an elevation of 7,638 feet, KEEP GOING STRAIGHT, if you go left it will take you over Cutaway Pass.
-It is another 2 miles up to Black Bear Meadows at an elevation of 8,115,
it's a nice break spot to analyze your route as it is fully visable form here.
Route Description-Now leave the trail around the upper half of Black Bear Meadows and head towards the two big peaks. The one on the left is a No-Namer at 10,259 and Warren is to the right at 10,464, just head up into class 3 coulior between them two peaks.
-Once your in the saddle climbing the rock, look for rock fall here it is very bad and it is Class 3, keep trugging up the rock and you'll hit the saddle at an elevaton 9,387 feet.
-Once in the saddle head due West up the North East Ridge of Warren Peak you have about 1,100 feet more climbing to do on mostly Class 3/4 with some exposure.
-I would reccomend not trying this in early season as it does cornice over pretty good and the melting water just adds to the rock fall.
Late July to early Septmeber are the best and safest times to try it.
Essential GearI carry
1-37 meter 8.1 mm twin dry rope(just one)
4 to 6 slings
2 to 5 stoppers for bad weather rappels if needed
couple biners and that should do it, you can skip all this if you want to.
Descent OptionsYou can either--
1.- Rap route climbed at spots.
2.- Traverse over to Porter Rige for a long day with high milage.
3.- Down climb the North Face Coulior in early day.