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North Face Classic
Route

North Face Classic

 
North Face Classic

Page Type: Route

Location: Avila, Spain, Europe

Lat/Lon: 40.24940°N / 5.2985°W

Object Title: North Face Classic

Route Type: Ice Climbing

Season: Winter

Time Required: Most of a day

Difficulty: IV/ 2

Number of Pitches: 3

Route Quality: 
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Page By: kabernicola

Created/Edited: Jan 23, 2006 / Nov 8, 2009

Object ID: 168318

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Approach

From Elola Hut go to Hoya Antón at the base of the normal route. From here you can see the north face. The clasic route is the wider gully just right of a marked corner (Diedro Esteras). Continue from here following the normal route till you get to the base of the main piramyd. Surround by the bottom of the rocky east face, then the Diedro Esteras route (much narrower gully) and finally you are at the bottom of the route. The first pitch have to be an ice fall.

Route Description

Topo of Almanzor North Face
The North Face is the #1 just in the center ofthe topo

First Pitch: Ice fall, short section at 70º
Second: Follow the snow field till you get to the second steep section
Third: Cross this section 70º. Belay at the top
From here follow the sonowfield untill you get to the top.

Essential Gear

Considering it´s winter, you´ll need ice axe and hummer, crampons, ice screws, some peg or nut if the route is dry. Ropes.
Descent by the Portilla del Crampón Route (Regular Route).
Wacht out for parties coming up while you downclimb.

Images

Topo of Almanzor North Face