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North Face - Comici

 
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North Face - Comici
Interesting fixed gear on Comici route (north face of Cima Grande)...a wooden piton or cuneo (wedge; thanks Gabriele!) (Sept. 2008).

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Gabriele Rothwe used

Gabriele Roth

Voted 10/10

to name it "cuneo" (wedge)
these kind of gear was very useful in wide cracks before the invention of nuts and friends
the only problem was that once fixed we couldn't take them off
sometimes we used to double them with another one or with an iron piton
Posted Oct 15, 2008 4:52 am

rpcRe: we used

rpc

Hasn't voted

Hi Gabriele,
I've seen such fixed wooden protection on a few routes here in the US as well - mainly it was on very wide cracks. Always fun to see "old days" approach :) Fun stuff! I will add the term you mention to the caption. Many thanks for checking these out!
Radek
Posted Oct 15, 2008 12:19 pm

Gabriele RothRe: we used

Gabriele Roth

Voted 10/10

There's another "old days" approach that has been forgotten : sometimes we also used to put strings in the cracks jamming them with some small stones we carried in our pockets (picked up at the starting point) ...
Posted Oct 15, 2008 12:35 pm

rpcRe: we used

rpc

Hasn't voted

Gabriele, some of those placements are can still be found (OR they withstood the test of time from the older days :)

http://www.summitpost.org/image/452986/152400/east-face-steger.html

Cheers!
Posted Oct 15, 2008 2:37 pm

Gabriele RothRe: we used

Gabriele Roth

Voted 10/10

oops :(
I didn't give a look to that photo ...
Posted Oct 15, 2008 3:38 pm

Digglerlooks bomber!

Diggler

Hasn't voted

The cord is spectra too, right? Brings to mind the phrase 'The leader must not fall.' ha ha
Posted Nov 13, 2008 2:44 pm

rpcRe: looks bomber!

rpc

Hasn't voted

:) yeah great stuff! That route had very many pins on the hard stuff so you'd never really pull all of them out...but you might travel some distance before stopping though. Thanks for visiting Dirk.
Posted Nov 13, 2008 4:33 pm

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Image Data
rpcSubmitted by rpc
on Oct 15, 2008 3:22 am

Image ID: 453471
Hits: 2205 
Object Title: North Face - Comici

Image Type(s): Alpine Climbing