North Face Direct - Mt Borah

On January 7-8, 1977 Frank Florence, Art Troutner, Mike Weber and I came back and did a single push (no camp) winter ascent of this face. We started around 1:00 AM and didn't get back until 4:30 AM the next day. Since we had left our car and camp at Rock Creek we descended the West Face by moonlight (all of our flashlights crapped out in the sub-zero conditions) to avoid walking back from Birch Springs. A few weeks after our climb a team from the Ketchum area reported doing the second winter ascent of this face. Curt Olson, Mike and I made 5 or more ascents of this face (typically on a new line) through 1990 when on that last trip together we observed that the average freezing level had moved up to nearly 12,000 feet. The glacier and all of the lower ice fields were gone.

First Ascent

  The story we heard in the early 70s was that the first ascent of the North Face of Mt Borah was made by Lyman Dye and party sometime in the 60s. From the research that I've done it is more likely that this was actually Dye's East Face route*. There is also an account of a north face ascent by H. Hilbert and G. Grady in 1971* but no details of their climb have been documented. In 1977 the northwest ridge was climbed and later that same year over Thanksgiving weekend a tragedy occurred involving two local Idaho climbers: Avalanche on Borah

*Reference, Idaho - A Climbing Guide (Tom Lopez)

The first winter ascent of Mt Borah was made by Frank Florence and party in 1973 by way of the southwest (Chicken-Out) ridge. They carried winter gear and spent the night above Chicken-Out-Ridge on the upper saddle in brutally cold conditions. From there they summited and descended the next day.

Mahogany Creek (East) Approach

This is a shorter hiking approach to the North Face. Drive over Doublespring/Horse Heaven Pass to the headwaters of Mahogany Creek. From there you can hike over the saddle and drop in to the Rock Creek drainage from the east. Although this a much shorter walking approach, the road into Mahogany Creek from Doublespring Pass requires a high clearance, 4x vehicle (preferred) and a descent of the north face.

Note: There are 2 Rock Creeks on this mountain, one is on the western side of the range and the other on the more remote, eastern side of the range. Both are accessed from Highway 93 and the Double Spring road. The description below is for the western branch of Rock Creek. This is the most commonly used and easiest approach to the North Face of Mt Borah.

Rock Creek (West) Approach

 Over the past 35 years I have made eight climbing trips up or down this drainage. This past October I finally had the opportunity to go on a non-climbing trip where I could take the time to explore the incredibly beautiful canyon and cirque that lies below the north side of Mt Borah, and also seek the easiest way in or out. The objective of this approach is to avoid getting cliffed out on the way in and to avoid the massive scree field in the upper canyon.

If you use Chicken Out Ridge for your descent, you can start at two places, Rock Creek or Birch Springs (the Mt Borah trailhead). If you start at Rock Creek and finish at Birch Springs you'll have to walk an extra mile back to your rig at the end of the trip. In either case, stay low and contour around to Rock Creek to avoid the cliffs where the West Face spills into the canyon.

Here's my suggestion for the easiest hike in to the face when Rock Creek is low enough to cross without difficulty. The road to Rock Creek is well described so I'll start at the upper parking spot above the small diversion dam. Park where the road makes a sharp bend and starts climbing a very steep hill (this is a hill that you do not want to drive). You will be on the left side of Rock Creek at this point. From here, folks tend to drop down to the dam and muck around in the Aspen looking for the creek crossing and trail. Instead, follow the contour (game trail) a short distance along the bare south-facing side of the canyon until you meet Rock Creek. Cross Rock Creek and then stay on the right side of the creek following a light boot trail up the canyon. A short ways up you will cross the debris from the west face drainage. The boot trail dissappears from time-to-time in the scree and on the benches but if you keep your eyes open it is fairly easy to follow. The old (and much rumored) single track road that used to run up the canyon has either eroded away or is now covered with mature trees so don't bother looking for it. When the right side of the canyon starts to steepen, cross Rock Creek and stay on the left side of the canyon until it's obvious that you can go back to the right side of the canyon. The trail traverses the fairly steep (right) side of the canyon and soon climbs to more open ground where you will get a spectacular view of the mountain. Keep your ear on Rock Creek because around the three-mile mark it disappears underground and you may not see water again until you get to the cliff band at 9800'. Be aware that during the dry season or when the face is frozen up this may be the last place to find running water.

If this sounds confusing, I'll break it down. Here's where you want to be: (mileage is approximate, total mileage to bottom of NF = +-5 miles)

Left side of canyon - .25 mi
Right side of canyon - 1.75 mi
Left side of canyon - .25 mi
Right side of canyon - .75 mi

  At this point you should be close to where Rock Creek goes underground and the huge cirque above becomes visible. Climb another mile or so through the trees or follow the dry bottom of Rock Creek to the cliff band that blocks access to the morraine above. If dry, the cliff band can be climbed by way of the secret passage - the narrow Class 2 gully on the left or on the 3rd class+ steps just to the right of the gully. Directly above the cliff band there is a great biv site (when dry). It includes a big rectangular rock with a number of good boulder problems. Drinking water may not be available at this site during certain times of the year. When it's wet, it's best to avoid the drainages altogether, they are delicate and can flood very rapidly on this side of the mountain.

If this approach sounds too confusing then just stay on the right side of Rock Creek for the entire approach by climbing the ascending benches up the canyon. It is a steeper climb, holds snow later and leads to cliffs if you stray too high or low.

Webcams - Weather

The ITD US 93 Willow Creek Summit webcam points directly at Mt Borah - Willow Creek Webcam

Gib Brown's Webcam - Gib's View

Weather Report - NOAA Point Forecast for 11,103'

NOTE: Due to the remoteness of this area the webcams may not be operable at all times and that includes cell phones, so plan accordingly.

Red Tape

None at all but it's a good idea to let someone know exactly where you are going.

October 2010 Trip Report

Oct 1-2, 2010 Trip Report" - Courtesy of fellow SP member Splattski

References - Local Links

 Glaciers of Idaho