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North Face - Greenwood-Jones
Route

North Face - Greenwood-Jones

 
North Face - Greenwood-Jones

Page Type: Route

Location: Alberta, Canada, North America

Object Title: North Face - Greenwood-Jones

Time Required: One to two days

Difficulty: 5.8 A1

Grade: V

Route Quality: 
 - 1 Votes
 

 

Page By: KenGlover

Created/Edited: Aug 12, 2009 / Aug 12, 2009

Object ID: 539972

Hits: 5485 

Page Score: 77.48%  - 8 Votes 

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Overview

Also called the Northeast Buttress. First climbed by Brian Greenwood and Jim Jones in the rainy summer of 1969. The safest route on Mt Temple's north face, in terms of objective hazards. This is a rock route with an icy finish onto the upper East Ridge. The rock quality is variable but the upper limestone pitches are on some of the finest quality alpine rock around. This route can be climbed in one day if simul-climbing the quartzite rib, or two days if belaying the entire route. The primary image here shows a general route line; many variations exist, with deviations along the rib and several possible exit pitches on the upper headwall.

Getting There

Hike up Paradise Valley from the Moraine Lake road to Lake Annette (1.5 hours). Walk around the lake and follow moraines towards the runout from the Sphinx Face bowl (30 mins).

Route Description

Start directly below the ridge and climb up the easiest looking break through the lower cliffband into the Sphinx Face bowl. One option is up a sometimes wet, wide right-facing corner that curves leftwards at 5.5
one possible first pitch
 
. Scramble up and right about 200 metres until it looks feasible to move up and left to gain the crest of the quartzite rib. Follow the rib for many pitches (about 12), following the line of least resistance to the left or right side of the ridge crest.
quartzite climbing on the middle part of the rib
 
Difficulty ranges up to 5.7, with some excellent quartzite climbing.
quartzite climbing
 
nice views on the quartzite rib
 
Simulclimbing where possible through this section will greatly decrease the necessity of a bivi higher up.
bivi
 
Continue on the rib, passing several steep walls and getting closer to the upper limestone headwall.
one of several steep walls along the quartzite rib
 
Towards the end of the quartzite rib you will pass a 20 metre high free-standing quartzite tower and then a green shale ledge system, until finally reaching a black, shattered limestone ledge system with a steep loose wall above. Traverse left on the exposed ledge about 40 metres, passing an overhanging corner, until possible to move up to a single fixed piton belay. Climb the loose groove above (5.8), trending rightwards where choices arise, to reach another ledge system (~50m).
arriving at the upper shale ledge after the loose groove
 
Traverse 50m right and then up to a crack belay (4th class).
traversing to the crack sustem the leads through the upper headwall
 
Climb the left-facing corner crack towards a large roof,
climbing into the alcove
 
then move up and right to a 10m high tower and piton belay (5.8).
belay on the upper headwall
 
Climb a crack above the tower into a loose alcove (5.6). From here several exits are possible, and the top of the ridge is about 3 pitches away. Routefinding from here is difficult in the dark. The 2 most common exits are: 1) climb out the left side of the alcove, following a crack into a left-trending corner system until about 20m below a roof, where a tension traverse right leads to an arete that can be followed to the top (5.9 or 5.8 A1). 2) lower out and right to a ledge, climb a short loose wall (5.6) and continue up a crack & chimney system until possible to move left on slabs to the top (5.7).
climbing to the alcove
 
fun climbing on excellent rock on the final headwall
 
starting up the 5.7 chimney
 
sun! and the stunning turquoise of Lake Annette from the top of the buttress
 
From here the ridge is composed of Black Towers limestone, and can be climbed directly or skirted on the right side and onto the glacier. Climb up towards the skyline to intersect the upper East Ridge. Follow the final section of the East Ridge Route and descent.
on the final part of the upper East Ridge
 
summit! ...and matching outfits
 

Essential Gear

helmet
full set of cams from 00 tcu to 4 inches
set of nuts
medium LA, 2 thin KBs
slings with several double-length
crampons and iceaxe for summit ice
boots, rockshoes recommended to fully appreciate the limestone pitches
maybe bivy gear

More Info

1. Jones, American Alpine Journal 1970.

2. Boles et al, Rocky Mountains of Canada-South, 1979.

3. Dougherty, Selected Alpine Climbs in the Canadian Rockies, 1996.

Images