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skunk apeNice Work!

skunk ape

Voted 10/10

I really want to give this route a try! Nice page Bob!
Posted Feb 25, 2010 4:56 pm

reboylesRe: Nice Work!

reboyles

Hasn't voted

I wish I had a few more photos to add so go get some and you can post them here. By the time we got to the waterfall pitch it was afternoon and we had to kick it up a notch. We didn't take another picture for the rest of the day as I recall. Curt had the camera so maybe he has a few shots that I haven't seen yet. We had two bigs "ifs" on this climb. We didn't know if the waterfall pitch would go until we got there and with the lighting and snow conditions, we couldn't tell if the chockstone was blocking the couloir. I led the steep snow pitch above the waterfall and had to turn into the couloir before I could see that the chockstone was free and clear of the snow. We were also highly motivated by the fact that none of us wanted to rap back off this route. We only had enough small stuff to set one good rap station but were about 5 pitches up at that point. I think we had a few pins with us but I know we never used them. When you're in the chockstone couloir you feel like you're in the bowels of the mountain. It's enclosed on 3 sides for most of the way up.
Posted Feb 26, 2010 12:45 pm

skunk apeRe: Nice Work!

skunk ape

Voted 10/10

Might be tough to find a partner, sounds pretty involved. What time did you shove off in the morning? you had pins but didn't use them, does that mean the rock wouldn't take them at the Waterfall pitch? Was the couloir pitch ice?
Posted Feb 26, 2010 1:22 pm

reboylesRe: Nice Work!

reboyles

Hasn't voted

I think it was about 9:30 when we hit the steeper snow below the stack and around 10:30 before we started the technical climbing. We brought a non-climbing buddy with us who ended up providing the goods for what was a late night party at our biv site so we slept in. We also had 5 fairly recent ascents of the NF of Borah under our belts so we were feeling kind of cocky and confident that morning.

There was no ice on the route at all. I think it was early July and the night time temps stayed above freezing the whole time we were there. I had to post hole up some 70 degree snow just above the waterfall at the start of the couloir. Once we got up the couloir a pitch and out of sight of the tremendous drop from the waterfall we stayed roped but didn't belay for the rest of the climb. I don't remember seeing any cracks that would really take pins and we didn't think Curt would find enough weaknesses to get up the overhang but he did and the pro was actually pretty good. I followed on Jumars with a high degree of pucker factor after seeing Curt's Rube Goldburg setup lower down on the rockband pitch. Firm snow or ice would have been faster to climb than the knee deep snow we got into. We also took our time figuring out where to go. Just knowing there is a route with two options on the crux should really help out. Bolts might work if you can drill without shattering the rock. As I recall, long slings were handy for some of the horn like features.
Posted Feb 26, 2010 5:36 pm

skunk apeRe: Nice Work!

skunk ape

Voted 10/10

Good Info! now if I can just find a friend. : )
Posted Mar 4, 2010 12:07 pm

kevinhansenRe: Nice Work!

kevinhansen

Hasn't voted

"We brought a non-climbing buddy with us who ended up providing the goods..."
Sounds so familiar...?
Hmmm

://www.acclaimimages.com/_gallery/_print_pages/0495-0705-1810-4758.html

Mike and Mark Weber? Any conncetion?
Posted Dec 15, 2012 11:50 pm

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