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North Face-Ramp

North Face-Ramp

North Face-Ramp

Page Type: Route

Location: Idaho, United States, North America

Lat/Lon: 44.09100°N / 115.066°W

Object Title: North Face-Ramp

Route Type: Steep snow, Mixed

Time Required: A long day

Difficulty: AI 3, 5.5

Route Quality: 
 - 2 Votes


Page By: mtnclimber101

Created/Edited: Nov 15, 2005 / Nov 17, 2005

Object ID: 167586

Hits: 2540 

Page Score: 72.08%  - 2 Votes 

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Follow directions up Baron Lake trail and cross snowfield heading for obvious couloir splitting center of North Face.

Route Description

About 1/3 of the way up snowfield, there is a large "island " of rocks, either bypass to left on snow slopes, or scramble (4th class) directly up center of rocks. Keep climbing up steepening snow field (45-50 deg.) to base of couloir.
Negotiate small bergschrund to get onto 1st pitch of rock (5.5), then continue up couloir as it ramps up to right (northwest) ridgeline. Top of 2nd pitch, the couloir splits--keep left (right dead ends)and continue to cornice on ridgeline.(2-3 pitches)
After negotiating cornice, scramble along Northwest ridge (class 3+) to summit.

Descent: Scramble back down ridgeline to cornice area and rappel route. Anchors are rock horns and trees/bushes. Three rappels back to snowfield with 2 ropes, 5-6 with single rope. Anchors for the raps are sometimes an engineering feat at best.

Essential Gear

Rope (2 recommended--I climb with 2 - 8mm), Helmet, crampons, 2 ice axes, 2-3 snow stakes, small alpine rock rack (set of nuts, 2-3 cams--0.5" to 2", set of tri cams, 3-4 short/med lost arrow pitons handy- but not essential), 6-8 quick draws, 4-6 extra biners, 10-12 various slings/cordelette, rappel device.

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.


This route is EASY, just...Tohobit Peak North face,...G Parker on middle of NF Ramp...J Regnier headed home after...J Regnier wondering how to...