Follow directions up Baron Lake trail and cross snowfield heading for obvious couloir splitting center of North Face.
About 1/3 of the way up snowfield, there is a large "island " of rocks, either bypass to left on snow slopes, or scramble (4th class) directly up center of rocks. Keep climbing up steepening snow field (45-50 deg.) to base of couloir.
Negotiate small bergschrund to get onto 1st pitch of rock (5.5), then continue up couloir as it ramps up to right (northwest) ridgeline. Top of 2nd pitch, the couloir splits--keep left (right dead ends)and continue to cornice on ridgeline.(2-3 pitches)
After negotiating cornice, scramble along Northwest ridge (class 3+) to summit.
Descent: Scramble back down ridgeline to cornice area and rappel route. Anchors are rock horns and trees/bushes. Three rappels back to snowfield with 2 ropes, 5-6 with single rope. Anchors for the raps are sometimes an engineering feat at best.
Rope (2 recommended--I climb with 2 - 8mm), Helmet, crampons, 2 ice axes, 2-3 snow stakes, small alpine rock rack (set of nuts, 2-3 cams--0.5" to 2", set of tri cams, 3-4 short/med lost arrow pitons handy- but not essential), 6-8 quick draws, 4-6 extra biners, 10-12 various slings/cordelette, rappel device.
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