From the Onion Valley trailhead, hike up the trail towards Kearsarge Pass for 2 miles to Gilbert Lake, then continue south on a side trail, eventually passing Matlock Lake. This trail will become a good use trail that follows the west shore of Matlock Lake. Leave the trail at the western shore of the lake and hike the slopes to the southwest, skirting the southwest edge of Bench Lake. Continue up more slabs, chutes and ledges, aiming towards University Peak and reaching the eastern edge of Lake 11,400 directly under the peak.
From Lake 11,400, scramble up the class 2 and 3 rib leading directly south towards the summit. An alternate route is to hike up a sand and gravel chute 0.10 mile to the southwest. The rib is a more enjoyable route and is mostly class 2. The rib ends a few hundred feet below the summit ridge. Continue towards the summit ridge. Traverse the ridge southwest towards the summit block. Whenever the traverse gets difficult, drop to the northwest side of the ridge. The first ascent of this route was by Norman Clyde.
Descent: either backtrack entirely or down climb the ascent route for about 500 vertical feet and then drop into the chute. The last 1,000 feet will be in the sand and gravel chute.
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