North Face : Climbing, Hiking & Mountaineering : SummitPost

From a parking spot on the shoulder of Hwy 20, directly opposite of the valley from the Wine Spries, drop down to Burgundy Creek. Look for a log crossing (of which there are many) that connects you to an initially faint climbers path. Follow the trail across the valley bottom and then steeply up to Burgundy Col. The trail is dusty after the snow melts and has few switch backs.

Route Description

A good description of this route and approach can be found in Nelson and Potterfield’s Selected Climbs in the Cascades, Vol I.

Fred Beckey, the grandmaster of the first ascent, has called Burgundy Spire one of the most difficult summits to attain in the Cascades. The most popular route, the North Face, goes at 5.8. The best time to climb is summer, after the snow melts and the approach can be made in tennis shoes.

From 150 feet below the col start in a slightly rotten gully and climb 2-3 pitches. Angle right until able to gain a nice ledge. Traverse the ledge to the right until under a very clean wall. Climb a good finger crack up and left to the summit.

Descend the route via rappels. 60 meter or double ropes recommended.