Phenominal route. Almost rivals the Wham Ridge in quality of climbing (but not aesthetics).
Hike up Vestal Creek drainage. Before the last steep rise in the trail leading up to the first willow meadow cut across the open area and cross the creek (easy crossing). Make for the lower right side of the face.
Several different options here. The easier one (and the FA route) angles up the grass/tree ledges for a few hundred feet. You then start the roped climbing (5.6) for 5 or 6 pitches. Another option (and much better in my option) gives you much more roped climbing. Head right for the right side of the north face directly for the buttress that seperates the north face from the NW face. Climb the buttress and keep to the right side of the Face. The climbing starts out steep and moves through several dihedrals. Quality climbing for 300-400ft of 5.6-5.7 climbing. The angle then gets less steep but the climbing stays around 5.5/5.6 for another 1,000ft. 4th class to the tope. Descent NE buttress.
One set of nuts and #8 and 9 hexes worked perfect.
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"If you had died in that crevasse those little black worms would have eaten you."