OverviewNorth Face AD ice 1000'
The North Face route is a steep 1000' snow and ice face graded AD to AD+ depending on conditions. Difficulty is usually determined by the number and size of crevasses and bergschunds that may be encountered and is best attempted in early-summer. From the Red Tit col head east down the Serratus Glacier avoiding crevasses and a small icefalls. Make your way upward weaving to the right-side of the north face finishing up the rock ridge to the summit (4-6h). To descend head down the south-west spur and follow the left-side couloir heading towards the Ionia-Serratus col. This can be a more difficult downclimb that the route taken up. Loose rock, few good anchors to rappel from and little summer ice lead to one scary descent when you see what a few small boulders are holding back in this couloir. Once down head north across the dry glacier back to the hut (1 1/2 - 2h).