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North Face

North Face

North Face

Page Type: Route

Location: British Columbia, Canada, North America

Lat/Lon: 49.71044°N / 123.18154°W

Object Title: North Face

Route Type: Mountaineering

Season: Summer

Time Required: Half a day

Difficulty: AD to AD+

Route Quality: 
 - 1 Votes


Page By: Brad Marshall

Created/Edited: Feb 4, 2007 / Feb 4, 2007

Object ID: 266914

Hits: 1957 

Page Score: 71.06%  - 1 Votes 

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North Face AD ice 1000'

The North Face route is a steep 1000' snow and ice face graded AD to AD+ depending on conditions. Difficulty is usually determined by the number and size of crevasses and bergschunds that may be encountered and is best attempted in early-summer. From the Red Tit col head east down the Serratus Glacier avoiding crevasses and a small icefalls. Make your way upward weaving to the right-side of the north face finishing up the rock ridge to the summit (4-6h). To descend head down the south-west spur and follow the left-side couloir heading towards the Ionia-Serratus col. This can be a more difficult downclimb that the route taken up. Loose rock, few good anchors to rappel from and little summer ice lead to one scary descent when you see what a few small boulders are holding back in this couloir. Once down head north across the dry glacier back to the hut (1 1/2 - 2h).

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Serratus Mountain