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North Face
Route

North Face

 
North Face

Page Type: Route

Location: British Columbia, Canada, North America

Lat/Lon: 53.11670°N / 119.15°W

Object Title: North Face

Route Type: Mountaineering

Season: Summer

Time Required: A few days

Rock Difficulty: 5.6 (YDS)

Difficulty: IV

Grade: IV

Route Quality: 
 - 1 Votes
 

 

Page By: mtnman455

Created/Edited: Apr 26, 2007 / Apr 30, 2007

Object ID: 288436

Hits: 5966 

Page Score: 74.16%  - 5 Votes 

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Overview

FA. P. Callis and D. Davis, August 1963. FWA. T Sorenson and A Henault, Winter 1978. F. Ski descent T. Jungen and P. Spricenieks, Sept 1995! Yes, this has been skied down!

This is a classic North Face route on a classic mountian nicknamed "The King"

Getting There

 
Robson River
 
There are many ways to get to the Helmet/Robson col. This is how we did it based upon the description in Selected Alpine Climbs in the Canadian Rockies by Sean Dougherty.

From the visitor’s station, follow the Robson River about a half mile short of Berg Lake. About 14 miles. You may want to continue on to Berg lake to set up camp for the night. Cross the Robson River  
Colin Coulson crossing the...
 
and gain the terminal moraine of the Mist Glacier. Follow the ridge of the moraine onto the rock buttress.  
On the Moraine from Mist...
 
Negotiate the loose rock ledges and fifth class moves and beware of falling rock.  
5th class choss on the North...
 
Follow cairns where ever you can find them. Continue on the buttress and finish on the right side to reach the Berg Glacier. Negotiate crevasses and steep snow to the base of the North Face. This can take most climbers anywhere from 6 to 8 hours from Berg Lake. Bivi at the col or find a ledge below the face to set up camp. 
High camp on Robson s North...
 
 
Our high camp below the N....
 

Route Description

 
Vertical ice in the...
 
Find a way into the bergschrund and ascend the 200 feet of vertical snow and ice to gain the 55-65* slope of the North Face.  
North Face
 
Difficulty will depend on the condition of the snow and it can change through out the climb. Negotiate bands of rock higher on the face and gain the ridge as far left as possible so to spend as little time as possible traversing the rest of the Emperor Ridge. Continue on the Emperor Ridge to the broad summit plateau.

Descend the Kain route for a classic mountain traverse!

Essential Gear

Snow stakes, ice screws, set of rock nuts (optional, we didn't have any but we were also run out over 50 ft. on mixed ground), two ice tools, a lot of determination.

Additions and Corrections

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Viewing: 1-2 of 2    
Damien Gildeamore spelling !

Damien Gildea

Hasn't voted

In the Route Description bit I guess "brushrund" is meant to be "bergschrund" ? When I first saw it I thought maybe it was some Canadian word for some mountain obstacle tree thing ! :-)
Posted Apr 26, 2007 7:06 am
mtnman455Re: more spelling !

mtnman455

Hasn't voted

HA! Thanks! I guess that is what happens when you do spell check late at night!
Posted Apr 26, 2007 10:20 am

Viewing: 1-2 of 2    

Images

North Face of Mt. RobsonRobson\'s North Face and...Joe, Krister, Colin and...Robson RiverA shot of the Emperor Face...North FaceCrazy waterfalls flowing down...
Our high camp below the N....On the Moraine from Mist...Thomas, Krister and Colin at...Krister organizing gear in...North Face Route