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North Face

 
North Face

Page Type: Route

Location: Arizona, United States, North America

Lat/Lon: 34.82900°N / 111.756°W

Object Title: North Face

Route Type: Trad Climbing

Season: Fall

Time Required: Half a day

Rock Difficulty: 5.7 (YDS)

Difficulty: slightly sandbagged in my opinion

Number of Pitches: 4

Grade: II

Route Quality: 
 - 3 Votes
 

 

Page By: H2SO4

Created/Edited: Mar 22, 2011 / Mar 23, 2011

Object ID: 706125

Hits: 581 

Page Score: 73.06%  - 3 Votes 

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Overview

This is mostly low 5th class on slightly dubious rock. This is not a route that I would climb for its own sake, but it leads to a neat point at an easier grade than most of the other towers in the area.

Getting There

See main page for instructions to the base of the route.

Route Description

P1. From the notch between Streaker Spire, and Christianity Tower, climb up on 4th class rock to the left of the prow of rock jutting out towards the notch for about 40 feet. Then traverse ~80 feet along the limestone band to a ledge with a small bush, a bolt, and a piton.
P2. continue traversing around the corner. This is a short pitch (~60 feet?). It should be obvious when to stop, because the traversing, which until this point has been 4th to low 5th class at most, suddenly looks hard. Belay in a small alcove with a bolt, and some medium/large cams in the crack. Because of these long traversing pitches, which I would say are adequately, but not generously protected, this is not the ideal route to bring an inexperienced follower on.
P3. Go straight up the crack for about 10 feet until it narrows to thin fingers. I traversed right about 10 feet into a groove at this point, and followed that up another 80 feet or so of mostly easy climbing, until a large ledge with a sizable tree.
P4. Go straight up from the tree. You should see above you a chimney with a bush on top of it, just to the left of the summit. Aim for that. The crux is getting into the chimney, but the holds and jams are surprisingly good. Once in the chimney, walk, and then squirm your way to the top. There is a bolted anchor a bit to the left.

Getting down

With one 60 meter rope, rappel off of the bolted anchor down to the ledge adjacent to the one with the tree at the top of the 3rd pitch. Near the top of the rappel, you can see the chains at the next anchor. Walk down ~20 feet to the next anchor, rappel. On a single 60 meter rope, this 2nd rappel will bring you to about 30 feet from the start of the route, where it is a short 4th (maybe 3rd) class scramble to the ground.

Essential Gear

Standard rack; it is nice to have a few large pieces. I placed a #3, #4, and #5 black diamond cam on the last pitch.

Images

Original Route (Streaker Spire)Streaker SpireNorth faceInto the ShadePulling the Roof