With Jason and Juan. We simul-climbed the entire face for the most part on hard snow over ice, fast travel conditions. Bergschrund was easy. Some fresh snow from last weeks system. We pitched out the rock band. Was in total mixed climbing condition. Two suspect screws. No passive rock gear available really. A bit dicy of a lead. Made my third fall into a crevasse for the year on the descent down the North Glacier. Typical, isothermal (deep penetration) snow conditions for 2011 still hiding the open holes up high. The seracs looked like they have had some activity, but cleaner than I have seen in the past. We came down below them at 10AM, everything was quiet despite no freeze the night before.
Unsuccessful once, nearly killed by icefall, retreat under fire -)
Tricky in the rocks at the exit to the snowfield, harder than it was "supposed to be", rotten rock and exposed crud. But the hell if I was going to V-thread and rap all the way back down that long face.
"As an adolescent I aspired to lasting fame, I craved factual certainty, and I thirsted for a meaningful vision of human life - so I became a scientist. This is like becoming an archbishop so you can meet girls."