Bergschrund was already getting to be a challenge. We found great ice with the lower half of the face covered in some snow. The rock band was mostly unprotectable, so we were glad to find three pitons, still used a tri-cam, some stubbies and a few cams. We moved right and found this easier terrain - it was probably 4th class or low fifth as rated. If you continued straight up it would have been harder for sure.
Great route, highly recommended. Make sure to get an early start and frozen conditions.
With Jason and Juan. We simul-climbed the entire face for the most part on hard snow over ice, fast travel conditions. Bergschrund was easy. Some fresh snow from last weeks system. We pitched out the rock band. Was in total mixed climbing condition. Two suspect screws. No passive rock gear available really. A bit dicy of a lead. Made my third fall into a crevasse for the year on the descent down the North Glacier. Typical, isothermal (deep penetration) snow conditions for 2011 still hiding the open holes up high. The seracs looked like they have had some activity, but cleaner than I have seen in the past. We came down below them at 10AM, everything was quiet despite no freeze the night before.
Unsuccessful once, nearly killed by icefall, retreat under fire -)
Tricky in the rocks at the exit to the snowfield, harder than it was "supposed to be", rotten rock and exposed crud. But the hell if I was going to V-thread and rap all the way back down that long face.
"Got tight last night on absinthe and did knife tricks. Great success shooting the knife into the piano. The woodworms are so bad and eat hell out of all furniture that you can always claim the woodworms did it."