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North Glacier, II

 
North Glacier, II

Page Type: Route

Location: British Columbia, Canada, North America

Lat/Lon: 51.49970°N / 116.5597°W

Object Title: North Glacier, II

Route Type: Mountaineering

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter

Time Required: Most of a day

Difficulty: Glacier Travel

Grade: II

Route Quality: 
 - 3 Votes
 

 

Page By: Dow Williams

Created/Edited: May 9, 2005 / Jul 30, 2006

Object ID: 164986

Hits: 2785 

Page Score: 74.01%  - 4 Votes 

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Approach

From the Takakkaw Falls parking lot. Follow the signed Yoho Valley Trail (north) pass Laughing Falls and on to the Little Yoho Valley Trail (west). This trail leads to the Stanley Mitchell Hut and .3 km more to campground #6. We camped two nights at this campground and used it as our base for this alpine climb and another scramble.

Route Description

The accurate name of the routes is President/V.President(considered separately) as boring as it might seem. From the campground, head back to the hut and catch a trail heading right at the hut and past the wardens cabin. This trail immediately intersects the Little Yoho River. After crossing the river, follow it to the right for either of two approaches. Either continue on the trail as it follows the drainage and proceed up to the left hand moraine's edge dumping you on the glacier lower left, or gain the left hand moraine earlier by veering left off the trail as soon as you pass the sign marking the Kiwetinok Pass at 4k. Start glacier left, ascend and then traverse glacier right as you aim for the 'schrund towards the col. Once at the col, you can unrope and enjoy lower 5th class scrambling up either or both peaks. They both have summit registers. The crux is crossing the bergschrund, depending on conditions.

Essential Gear

We did not place any ice or rock gear. Of course a rope, crampons, helmet, crevase rescue equipment, etc. all make sense.

Images

 The President and Vice...Takakkaw Falls, the start of... The President, V. Pres. and... The President and Vice...This is the President Glacier...President Mountain from the...On decent pass a crevasse...
Below the col between the...Emerald Glacier and President...President\'s Pass and the...The President and Emerald...