Palisades > North Palisade > Climber's LogNorth Palisade Climber's Log
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| Misha | Route Climbed: Traverse from Startlight Peak Date Climbed: August 9, 2004  | |
| By far the best part of our traverse from Thunderbolt to Polemonium. We stayed on the very edge of the ridge that featured some 5.7-5.8 moves. Free-solo. Click for the trip report. | |
| Posted Aug 16, 2004 11:30 am | ||
| Scott M. | Route Climbed: From the U Notch Date Climbed: August 12, 2004 | |
| After an awesome night camped at the U Notch, watching the Perseid meteor shower, we headed up. Some nasty weather was moving in quickly so we took in the views and headed off toward Starlight. A terrific summit. | |
| Posted Aug 13, 2004 5:12 pm | ||
| dabender | Route Climbed: U-Notch/Chimney Date Climbed: July 10, 2004 | |
| Cloudless sky, good snow bridge in about the middle of the 'schrund. From the top of the chimney we dropped off the ridge about 100' and traversed over then up to the summit. This was easier and less exposed than staying right on the ridge. | |
| Posted Jul 12, 2004 2:55 am | ||
| SoloRed | Route Climbed: Clyde Couloir & Upper N. Face Date Climbed: June 21, 1997 | |
| Fabulous day, from a bivvy near terminal moraine of Palisade Gl. I climbed the couloir direct - all the snow & ice I could find (did not move onto the rock as suggested in Secor, & Roper). Couloir was quite straightforward until near its top where there are 3 chockstones, which gave me body-length vertical ice steps - exciting when one is soloing (had 2 ice tools, & used 'em!). Once out of the couloir traversed up & left on steep ground until hitting the top corner of the N. Face snow field, then straight up to the summit (again, steep rock). On the traverse I discovered an old Chouinard oval with 2 pristine Chouinard nuts slung with perlon - sweet find for my alpine museum. Downclimbed the U-Notch, which had a lot of exposed blue ice for that early in the season. | ||
| Posted Jan 27, 2004 2:00 pm | ||
| mtnfoto | Route Climbed: U Notch/Chimney Date Climbed: May 1976 | |
| Perfect snow climb, sunny day! | ||
| Posted Jan 22, 2004 5:54 pm | ||
| Guilty | Route Climbed: From U-Notch Date Climbed: 10/03/99 | |
| Solo from Sam Mack Meadow up the U-Notch. On the descent, I went did Polemonium. | |
| Posted Oct 7, 2003 10:57 pm | ||
| PellucidWombat | 3 times now?! Date Climbed: Jun 20, 2010 | |
| June 20th, 2010 - The last peak of a very long day as Steph and I made a good effort at a Palisade traverse. We descended the E Couloir of the U-Notch in the dark. September 30, 2005 - Ascended via the U-Notch/West Chute with fresh snow in the chimney! Leading that pitch was cold and snowy as spindrift kept blowing up the E Couloir of the U-Notch. Our rope was too short to rappel, so we descended Clyde's Variation. September 20th, 2003 - Excellent climb. While the approach was a pain, the climbing from the U-notch to the summit was very nice. While Dirk was more adventurous than me by jumping over a gap on the ridge to gain the summit, I found a nice hole to wriggle through to get there. P.S. If I had to spend a night on the summit of a 14er, North Palisade would definitely be the peak of choice - there are a maze of cracks in the summit big enough to crawl through for shelter, and there are plenty of goodies (such as sweaters) left in them from previous climbers. | |
| Posted Sep 23, 2003 9:11 pm | ||
| Diggler | Route Climbed: W-side chute to U-Notch; chimney variation Date Climbed: 20 September, 2003 | |
| Though our original plan was to go up the U-Notch couloir to the chimney variation, my partner Mark (aka Pellucid Wombat) & I decided to reevaluate our options, after being told by everyone we asked that the conditions were awful. Having forgotten my helmet in Oakland, being brained by loose rock didn't sound like my idea of a fun climb. Having wanted to do that particular route for a long time, after some soul-searching & deliberation, we decided to do the necessary thing (as peak-baggers) & do a different route, changing our permit from N. Fork of Big Pine Creek to Bishop Pass. Next morning we got a semi-alpine start of 5.55 from Bishop Pass, arriving at the W-side U-Notch chute at 8.45. After some mundane talus & scree slogging, we attained the U-Notch. Went up the chimney variation (a lot of fun- wish I wouldn't have clipped into the 2-pin belay, though- would've 3rd-classed it otherwise!). Scrambling from the top of the chimney was great fun, too. Summited at 13.50. Great views from the top of this amazing peak, with perfect Sierra summer weather. After chillin' at the top, & soaking up the grandeur of that moment, started down at 14.38. Only bummer was we couldn't find the summit register! Nice to have a good partner with which to do this mountain. Great peak, fun climb (from the U-Notch, anyway), & beautiful day! | |
| Posted Sep 22, 2003 1:16 pm | ||
| depclimb | Route Climbed: U-Notch/Chimney Date Climbed: August 1979 | |
| Made a one day approach to the moraine and summited the next day. It was a bit more challenging with leather boots, smc strap on crampons and a hickory shaft axe. I have repeated the peak twice since 79. It's a classic. | |
| Posted Apr 24, 2003 10:16 am | ||
| asmrz | Route Climbed: North Palisade via U Notch and the Chimney Variation Date Climbed: July 18, 1980 | |
| Scott Bailey and I climbed this great alpine route from out tent on Palisades Glacier in 1980. I came back in Feb/March of 1994 with Brian Johnson and climbed the same route. In August of 1996, Don Brosnahan and I climbed up the Swiss Arete of Sill and traversed the ridge to Thunderbolt Peak. | |
| Posted Nov 13, 2002 8:11 pm | ||
| thenunz | Route Climbed: Le Conte's Ledge Date Climbed: 09/09/1999 | |
| Second attempt. Intimidating mountain that is worth all the effort. | |
| Posted Oct 29, 2002 12:22 pm | ||
| bearbnz | Route Climbed: Palisade Traverse from Thunderbolt Date Climbed: August 17, 2002 | |
| North Pal was peak #3 of the day for ScottyS and I, we started with Thunderbolt, went to Starlight, and then North Pal. This is a fun traverse, but if it's your first time, route finding is tedious. From North Pal, we continued on to Polemonium, and then Sill. The really fit guys continue on to Middle Pal, and sometimes even to Split Mountain. | |
| Posted Sep 27, 2002 6:11 pm | ||
| Craig Peer | Route Climbed: U Notch Date Climbed: May 1979 | |
| Climbed the U Notch under perfect conditions over Memorial day weekend. one of the best mountaineering experiences in the High Sierra! | |
| Posted Sep 23, 2002 12:01 pm | ||
| Steve Grind | Route Climbed: West Couloir Date Climbed: Sep 19, '02 | |
| Really enjoyed this route - the Catwalk, Chute, and summit scrambling were definately highlights of the trip. Planned to traverse to Starlight, got about 1/4 of the way across, and decided against it. With 3 people, we had only a 30m rope and minimal gear, and were moving too slow. Nonetheless it was a really fun climb! | ||
| Posted Sep 21, 2002 8:20 am | ||
| rmjwinters | Route Climbed: Traverse from T-bolt and Starlight Date Climbed: August 23, 2002 | |
| Kind of a hairy traverse from Starlight. We stayed mainly within 60-80 feet of the ridge with several exposed Class 5 moves along the way. Reached the summit at 4:30 in time to rappel down the U notch. | |
| Posted Aug 25, 2002 9:39 pm | ||
| Bob Burd | Route Climbed: Northwest Ridge Date Climbed: Aug 21, 2002 | |
| Day 5 of the 2002 Mountaineers Challenge. From South Lake, climbed Southwest Chute #1 to Thunderbolt, traversed to Starlight - North Pal - Polemonium, down the Southwest Chute from the U-Notch, then back to South Lake. 14hrs CTC. Trip Report. | |
| Posted Aug 22, 2002 7:34 pm | ||
| ScottyS | Route Climbed: Traverse from Starlight Date Climbed: August 17, 2002 | |
| Traversed from Thunderbolt to Starlight to N.Pal to Polemonium to Sill with bearbnz. We freeclimbed most of the route, with three rappels and three belayed (probably unneccesary) pitches total. Heavy packs and little route knowledge (Secor's book only) made for slow time --- OK, maybe lack of fitness contributed! Left the car around 530, summited Thunderbolt around 1100, summited Sill at 2130. Waited for daylight to decend an east couloir of Sill and walk down to the S. Fork Trail. Got to the car at 1330 on Aug. 18 and drove home to get some sleep. | |
| Posted Aug 18, 2002 9:22 pm | ||
| Guilty | Route Climbed: Palisade traverse from T-Bolt. Date Climbed: July 6, 02 | |
| Ian and me traverse from Thunderbolt, to Starlight, to North Pal, to Polemonium and then Sill. Oh, we never touched a rope. | |
| Posted Jul 9, 2002 9:03 pm | ||
| Antonio Genissimo | Route Climbed: U notch / 5.4? Date Climbed: 6/10/02 | |
| Jesus Malverde, Wally Longridge and I left camp near Sam Mack @ 4:30 am, topped out at 4pm and got back to camp at 3am. Perfect conditons, 'schrund was bridged with snow. We were moving pretty constantly, how come we were so dam slow? | |
| Posted Jun 12, 2002 7:41 am | ||
| synne.chadwick | Route Climbed: West side colouir Date Climbed: September 2001 | |
| Had a difficult time with route finding, especially near the summit. Wasted a couple of hours just trying to figure out if we were on route. Got back to camp right before dark, and hiked out the next day. Had planned to do Starlight and Polemonium, but we ran out of time and food. Those mountains will be a goal for another summer..... | |
| Posted May 18, 2002 6:24 am | ||
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