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North Palisade Climber's Log

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boyblueLeConte Route Solo  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 10, 1979


Approached from Glacier Creek via Potluck. I found that climbing the icy chock-stones in the narrow chute below the bowl to be at about the upper limit of my ability at the time. Not surprised to see this route's been upgraded to class 4. Amazing climb, though.
Posted Aug 12, 2009 7:57 pm

MariePTraverse in a day  Sucess!


Part of the traverse
Posted Aug 11, 2009 4:11 pm

BlackmouthThunderbolt to Sill Traverse  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 8, 2009


Day hiked the Thuderbolt to Sill Traverse in just over 20 hours. Started at South Lake and ended at the shuttle car at Glacier Lodge. Climbed with SPer's Forjan,Kevin Trieu,Dave S,Luis Gijon and Corey Harelson. We used our double ropes to rap down to the U-Notch on our way to Polemonium. Ran into Sper's Chuck O and Javier on the summit of North Pal.
Posted Aug 10, 2009 8:31 pm

WMLSingle-push fun
Date Climbed: Jul 11, 2009


Began our trek in at 138am on Sunday, arrived about an hour and a half too late...got to the base of the 'schrund but the rockfall was a bit much to risk annihilation. Returning soon for revenge. Approached via NF Big Pine Creek, were aiming to climb the U-Notch + Chimney variation.
Posted Jul 30, 2009 1:47 am

jspeiglSouthwest chute, chimney variation  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 4, 2009


Cool climb. The views from camp at Thunderbolt Pass were amazing. I highly recommend the west side.
Posted Jul 6, 2009 3:31 am

TheRootsterSouthwest side  Sucess!


A super-fun climb thanks to the appealing route and great history. I soloed it, and high up in the chute remember thinking to myself that every step had to count--no room for error. Then I came flying up to the ridgeline at the top of the chute and darn near threw myself over before realizing what a yowza knife edge it was--whew, there's an empty elevator shaft if ever there was one. Great weather, great day, great climb.
Posted Jun 21, 2009 12:15 pm

alpinegosseDone  Sucess!


U-Notch to Chimney stayed two nights.
Posted Nov 24, 2008 11:51 am

BCLRoute Climbed: Le Conte Date Climbed: Sept 20, 2008  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 20, 2008


Solo day hike out of South Lake.
Posted Sep 22, 2008 9:47 pm

dshoshoneLe Conte  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 14, 2008


Great climb
Posted Sep 16, 2008 11:25 am

seanoFrom Starlight  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 25, 2008


Continuing the traverse. The swing across that gap was wild!
Posted Sep 5, 2008 2:02 pm

jimeganNorth Palisade  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 28, 2008


Climbed with Mike Brooks using the U Notch couloir and catwalk from our Dusy Basin base camp
Posted Aug 30, 2008 4:02 am

Augie MedinaMini Traverse  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 2, 2008

Augie Medina

Tom Becht and Glenn Gookin and me hiked from the Bishop Pass Trailhead at South Lake and exited at Glacier Lodge. This is a great peak but not quite as much fun as climbing the summit block on Thunderbolt and the Milk Bottle on Starlight.
Posted Aug 4, 2008 3:46 am

bechttTraverse  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 2, 2008


Long day doing the Palisades Traverse with Glenn and Augie. Expected it to be much harder -- especially from the notch.
Posted Aug 3, 2008 10:09 pm

BradBartickPart of the Palisades Traverse  Sucess!


Hit NP as part of the Palisades traverse last summer. Great exposure and difficult route-finding, but Bruce kept us on course.
Posted Jul 12, 2008 9:58 pm

benjohnsonSolo from U-notch  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 1, 2008


Linked up Polemonium, North Palisade and Starlight from camp in Palisade basin. Beautiful area, and saved several peaks to make sure there will be a "next time."
Posted Jul 3, 2008 5:17 pm

Brad MastrosU-Notch  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 21, 2008

Brad Mastros

Dave Smith and I climbed the U-Notch in about a 12 hour day from Galey camp.
Amazing views from the top.
Posted Jun 23, 2008 4:43 pm

Shirley LamNice...  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 12, 2007

Shirley Lam

bivy spot below the summit. I wish I could wake up every morning to a beautiful view like that!
Posted Jan 30, 2008 10:00 pm

bighornmonkeyDone...  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 12, 2007


Up it 3 times! Last was during a palisade traverse where we bivied a few feet down from the summit of North Pal.
Posted Dec 25, 2007 8:37 am

physicsRoute Climbed: U-Notch+Clyde Variation Date Climbed: Sept 17, 2007  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 17, 2007


climbed with fbagni. Awoke at 3AM and left camp at 4AM. The berg was easy-passable via a 70-degree ramp and we climbed 5 pitches (70m rope) of blue, grey, black, and glass ice to the notch. Climbed 2 easy pitches of rock to the ridge and traversed to the summit. Rapped the ice finishing the last 4 raps in the dark. Worn, bruised, and tired, we made it back to camp at 2AM after 22 hrs on the move. A full day, glad to finally climb North Pal via the U-notch on ice. one more CA 14er left...
Posted Sep 20, 2007 3:14 pm

Fred BagniU-Notch  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 17, 2007

Fred Bagni

Climbed with physics. Long day. Good climb. Excellent views. Rivals Sill's. Camped 450ft below the moraine on the east side of Gayley camp by a pond. No water up above. The glacier is unrecognizable. Very melted out. Very sad. Crunchy, it felt like we were walking on broken glass. We could also hear it cracking all around us. Surprised to see so many crevasses. Some of them at least 40 feet deep. The berg was passable via a 25+ foot 70 degree wall of ice. The ice was bullet proof all the way to the top. Made it tough putting in screws. Temperatures were in the low 20's at night. Take two ropes if rapelling. Takes too long with one...
Posted Sep 20, 2007 12:37 pm

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