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seth@LOKIThe Coolest Peak ever.  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 21, 2003

seth@LOKI

Swesome climbing here! 4th classed down to the lookers right of the 5.2 chimneys. Not too bad but lured us into trying to 4th class Polemonium. I dpn't recommendt that.
Posted Jul 26, 2006 8:33 pm

mekwiseU Notch-Chimney Var  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 5, 2006

mekwise

"Hell Yeah, Baby!" I said with a whoop as I mantled onto the summit. Great well-worth-the-extra-push-to-get-there summit.
Posted Jul 10, 2006 9:23 pm

Mike NU-Notch  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 5, 2006

Mike N

Phenomenal climb. Took 12 hours camp to camp! Getting over bergscrund was fine but it was starting to break up. Snow was good in UNotch in AM but was loose and slippery on the way down. Got to chimney around 10-10:30. 2 pitches of what I would call 5.6-5.7. Just a a few moves may be that way but it is definitely not 5.2 (ladder) as it has been called. Then was tricky trying to find the best route to traverse. We belayed from a little spot that overlooked the snowfield on the east face. Up over the slabs, around a tower, on the ridge, and then down on the 3rd-4th class slopes on the west side of the ridge. I would not describe this as a "bowl" but more like the top of a gully or couloir. Find the easiest way down to some sandy paths that will lead to the base of the summit block. You will be looking up at the summit from this point. Aim for the summit along 4th class blocks and small slabs. Up through a small chimney will get you on top of the summit block.

For the descent...From there about 25 feet to the west is a rap station that will get you to the bottom of the 4th class stuff. Walk a little further down, cross the sandy paths and retrace steps to top of chimney. 2 raps then to the Unotch. We rapped the Unotch because the snow was loose and slippery at this point. It took a lot of rappels with 1 rope! This seemed to take a long time. Careful over the bergschrund.
Posted Jul 9, 2006 9:22 pm

Rick KentU-Notch (Glacier Side) + Chimney
Date Climbed: Jun 30, 2006

Rick Kent

Climbed North Pal & Polemonium with Courtney P. Had fun leading the chimney and 3 pitches up to Polemonium (not the typical route apparently). No ice present in the couloir below the U-Notch -- just soft snow. After Polemonium we went on toward Sill and descended via Glacier Notch (a fairly long day).
Posted Jul 5, 2006 11:13 pm

ghoulwe2North Palisade & Polemonium Peak  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 1, 2006

ghoulwe2

The snowline on the approach hike is just below Sam Mack Meadow. You can hike snow from there to the glacier or find the trail on the ridge to the left (looking up). We camped on dry ground 30-40 minutes below the glacier. The U-Notch bergshrund was passable on the right by a ramp, but will not last much longer. We soloed soft snow steps in the couloir, then roped up for the fun, chimney pitches to the summit ridge, where we simul-climbed to the summit. Arrived at 10:45 AM. Our plans to traverse to Starlight Peak were hampered by a party of 3 ahead of us, so we descended to the notch and climbed Polemonium instead. Arrived back at camp at 6:00 PM and hiked out - whew! A great trip with perfect weather in the incomparable High Sierra.
Posted Jul 3, 2006 5:59 pm

cp0915U-Notch Couloir & Chimney Variation

cp0915

Nice climb. Snow was a bit soft in the couloir. Chimney was fun. Fun scrambling to the highpoint. Did Polemonium Peak afterward. (June 06)
Posted Jul 2, 2006 4:21 pm

plumeU-Notch  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 25, 2006

plume

Honeymoon trip. Perfect weather, perfect climb.
Posted Jun 27, 2006 1:41 am

mthilgard13Perfect Spring Climb
Date Climbed: May 28, 2006

mthilgard13

Calm day, with a foot of powder up the U Notch. Climbed to the top of the Chimney, but ran out of time...wow, that traverse needs time with snow. I would use protection with snow as well.
Posted Jun 1, 2006 3:55 am

kevin trieuNorth Palisade via N-Notch & Chimney  Sucess!
Date Climbed: May 14, 2006

kevin trieu

What a climb. 5/14 ended to be a 20 hour day starting at 4:00am at just behind the lake to the summit at 11:30am and back to the car at Midnight. yeah!!!
Posted May 19, 2006 10:27 pm

bajaandyRoute: Northeast Buttress, Grade II, 5.6  Sucess!

bajaandy

Second attempt on this one. Climbed it the year before with Matt G. and Dave D., only to get turned back by a sinus infection that reacted badly to altitude. Ouch. Camped high on the moraine and crossed the 'schrund of the U-notch to gain the rock wall on the right side. 3-4 pitches of 5.6 climbing put us on the slopes below the upper snow field. Awesome climb.
Downclimbed and rapped the route
Posted Mar 9, 2006 4:21 pm

PellucidWombatRoute Climbed: SW Couloir+Chimney Variation - Descended Clyde Variation Date Climbed: October 1, 2005  Sucess!

PellucidWombat

Fun climb, and the wind and blowing snow definitely made conditions more difficult than expected.



For those who want my want to try climbing the Chimney variation on a 30m rope - don't do it! Its not long enough unless you don't mind simul-climbing a lot.



Descending the Clyde Variation was very straightforward, even with no prior planning to use the route.
Posted Dec 16, 2005 9:51 pm

tdoughtyRoute Climbed: Clyde Couloir Date Climbed: JUne 1976  Sucess!

tdoughty

Climbed as a present to myself for graduating from High School. With Ray Barnett
Posted Oct 16, 2005 2:02 pm

Matthew HollimanRoute Climbed: NW Ridge (ascent) / LeConte Route (descent) Date Climbed: Sep 4, 2005  Sucess!

Matthew Holliman

Final peak on a traverse from Thunderbolt with Glenn and Curt. In contrast to Bob's experience, we found the section between Starlight and North Pal to be a fair bit easier than the section between Thunderbolt and Starlight--but carrying a rope, we probably made different choices than he did. There was one rappel along the way that we wouldn't have had a prayer of downclimbing.



Couldn't make heads or tails of Secor's route descriptions on the summit, and ended up rapping off the summit and following a mystery chute down. Found ducks, footprints, and a convenient ledge system to take us down into the main SW Chute. I guess we stumbled upon the LeConte route...
Posted Oct 5, 2005 3:21 am

CompletebumRoute Climbed: West Chute + Chimney Var. Date Climbed: October 1, 2005  Sucess!

Completebum

An excellant peak, I wish I could've enjoyed the summit a bit more but the reality of having to hike back to T-bolt pass in the dark made me cut it to 5 minutes. Still no book in the register, just a dull pencil and a few bits of paper. For more details see Mark's (Pellucid Wombat) impending trip report.
Posted Oct 3, 2005 11:10 am

KerstinRoute Climbed: U-Notch + Chimney Variation Date Climbed: August 9, 1987  Sucess!

Kerstin

An exciting climb, I found the chimney difficult due to the altitude. We made the mistake of bringing only one nine mm rope. The snow conditions in the U-Notch were perfect in early morning. By afternoon we encountered slush over hard ice, and rockfall. It took us forever to rappel the couloir with only one 165 foot rope.



Still, it was a great day. I'll never forget the view from the top!
Posted Sep 17, 2005 12:52 pm

kovarpaRoute Climbed: U-Notch + Chimney Date Climbed: August 31, 2005  Sucess!

kovarpa

Soloed U-Notch, then climbed the chimney. Added Starlight and Polemonium for a 3 peak day.
Posted Sep 8, 2005 8:29 pm

BranchWhitneyRoute Climbed: West Chute Date Climbed: 9/5/2004  Sucess!
Great climb. One of the best 14ers in the Sierra. The summit puts up a good fight.
Posted Sep 7, 2005 12:22 am

GlennGRoute Climbed: Northwest ridge Date Climbed: September 4th 2005  Sucess!

GlennG

Climbed up from the notch separating Starlight and North Palisade. Part of a day hike from South Lake where we tagged Thunderbolt, Starlight and finished here. Climbed with my little bro Curt and Matthew Holliman.
Posted Sep 5, 2005 11:05 pm

Brian KaletRoute Climbed: Clyde Variation Date Climbed: August 7, 2005  Sucess!

Brian Kalet

Was planning on bagging Polemonium next, but got chased off by thunderstorms.
Posted Aug 8, 2005 6:13 pm

travelin_lightRoute Climbed: U Notch/Chimney Date Climbed: June 25, 2005  Sucess!

travelin_light

Fun snow climb. Snow is getting harder. Tagged the summit and the got pounded by a fierce snow storm all the way back down to camp by the terminal moraine.
Posted Jun 29, 2005 1:01 pm

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