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mthilgard13Perfect Spring Climb
Date Climbed: May 28, 2006

mthilgard13

Calm day, with a foot of powder up the U Notch. Climbed to the top of the Chimney, but ran out of time...wow, that traverse needs time with snow. I would use protection with snow as well.
Posted Jun 1, 2006 3:55 am

kevin trieuNorth Palisade via N-Notch & Chimney  Sucess!
Date Climbed: May 14, 2006

kevin trieu

What a climb. 5/14 ended to be a 20 hour day starting at 4:00am at just behind the lake to the summit at 11:30am and back to the car at Midnight. yeah!!!
Posted May 19, 2006 10:27 pm

bajaandyRoute: Northeast Buttress, Grade II, 5.6  Sucess!

bajaandy

Second attempt on this one. Climbed it the year before with Matt G. and Dave D., only to get turned back by a sinus infection that reacted badly to altitude. Ouch. Camped high on the moraine and crossed the 'schrund of the U-notch to gain the rock wall on the right side. 3-4 pitches of 5.6 climbing put us on the slopes below the upper snow field. Awesome climb.
Downclimbed and rapped the route
Posted Mar 9, 2006 4:21 pm

PellucidWombatRoute Climbed: SW Couloir+Chimney Variation - Descended Clyde Variation Date Climbed: October 1, 2005  Sucess!

PellucidWombat

Fun climb, and the wind and blowing snow definitely made conditions more difficult than expected.



For those who want my want to try climbing the Chimney variation on a 30m rope - don't do it! Its not long enough unless you don't mind simul-climbing a lot.



Descending the Clyde Variation was very straightforward, even with no prior planning to use the route.
Posted Dec 16, 2005 9:51 pm

tdoughtyRoute Climbed: Clyde Couloir Date Climbed: JUne 1976  Sucess!

tdoughty

Climbed as a present to myself for graduating from High School. With Ray Barnett
Posted Oct 16, 2005 2:02 pm

Matthew HollimanRoute Climbed: NW Ridge (ascent) / LeConte Route (descent) Date Climbed: Sep 4, 2005  Sucess!

Matthew Holliman

Final peak on a traverse from Thunderbolt with Glenn and Curt. In contrast to Bob's experience, we found the section between Starlight and North Pal to be a fair bit easier than the section between Thunderbolt and Starlight--but carrying a rope, we probably made different choices than he did. There was one rappel along the way that we wouldn't have had a prayer of downclimbing.



Couldn't make heads or tails of Secor's route descriptions on the summit, and ended up rapping off the summit and following a mystery chute down. Found ducks, footprints, and a convenient ledge system to take us down into the main SW Chute. I guess we stumbled upon the LeConte route...
Posted Oct 5, 2005 3:21 am

CompletebumRoute Climbed: West Chute + Chimney Var. Date Climbed: October 1, 2005  Sucess!

Completebum

An excellant peak, I wish I could've enjoyed the summit a bit more but the reality of having to hike back to T-bolt pass in the dark made me cut it to 5 minutes. Still no book in the register, just a dull pencil and a few bits of paper. For more details see Mark's (Pellucid Wombat) impending trip report.
Posted Oct 3, 2005 11:10 am

KerstinRoute Climbed: U-Notch + Chimney Variation Date Climbed: August 9, 1987  Sucess!

Kerstin

An exciting climb, I found the chimney difficult due to the altitude. We made the mistake of bringing only one nine mm rope. The snow conditions in the U-Notch were perfect in early morning. By afternoon we encountered slush over hard ice, and rockfall. It took us forever to rappel the couloir with only one 165 foot rope.



Still, it was a great day. I'll never forget the view from the top!
Posted Sep 17, 2005 12:52 pm

kovarpaRoute Climbed: U-Notch + Chimney Date Climbed: August 31, 2005  Sucess!

kovarpa

Soloed U-Notch, then climbed the chimney. Added Starlight and Polemonium for a 3 peak day.
Posted Sep 8, 2005 8:29 pm

BranchWhitneyRoute Climbed: West Chute Date Climbed: 9/5/2004  Sucess!
Great climb. One of the best 14ers in the Sierra. The summit puts up a good fight.
Posted Sep 7, 2005 12:22 am

GlennGRoute Climbed: Northwest ridge Date Climbed: September 4th 2005  Sucess!

GlennG

Climbed up from the notch separating Starlight and North Palisade. Part of a day hike from South Lake where we tagged Thunderbolt, Starlight and finished here. Climbed with my little bro Curt and Matthew Holliman.
Posted Sep 5, 2005 11:05 pm

Brian KaletRoute Climbed: Clyde Variation Date Climbed: August 7, 2005  Sucess!

Brian Kalet

Was planning on bagging Polemonium next, but got chased off by thunderstorms.
Posted Aug 8, 2005 6:13 pm

travelin_lightRoute Climbed: U Notch/Chimney Date Climbed: June 25, 2005  Sucess!

travelin_light

Fun snow climb. Snow is getting harder. Tagged the summit and the got pounded by a fierce snow storm all the way back down to camp by the terminal moraine.
Posted Jun 29, 2005 1:01 pm

Brian FrederickRoute Climbed: U-notch/ chimney Date Climbed: July, Mid 80s  Sucess!

Brian Frederick

Very fun climb, a challenge to surmount the bergschrund, then hard neve to the notch. The chimney pitches were fairly easy with a minimal rack. One of my favorite summits. Stayed too long and had some rockfall in the couloir coming down.
Posted Mar 30, 2005 11:30 pm

RSN473Route Climbed: U-Notch/Chimney Date Climbed: June 21, 2003  Sucess!

RSN473

Great Climb! Getting across bergshrund was a bit tricky, but our semi-large group (6) was able to get up and back to camp by sunset.
Posted Mar 3, 2005 2:02 pm

mylesRoute Climbed: U-Notch to Clyde variation Date Climbed: July 1997  Sucess!

myles

Windy, cloudy and cold, cold on top.
Posted Jan 6, 2005 9:59 am

sierratrekkinRoute Climbed: U-Notch Date Climbed: June, 2000  Sucess!

sierratrekkin

I climbed North Palisade in June of 2000, along with guide Brendon Cusick of AAI, via U-Notch. We climbed Mount Sill the next day.
Posted Dec 19, 2004 7:14 pm

Steve LarsonRoute Climbed: U-Notch Date Climbed: July, 1982  Sucess!

Steve Larson

Did this with Sara Steck on a day off from our duties with the Palisade School of Mountaineering. Swinging that ole' Chouinard wooden piolet into the ice, and a wierd little Salewa ice hammer. A great route. Ice went all the way to the notch then, haven't seen it several years, but form pictures it looks like rock the last few yards. Pity of that's the case, it had a real kick in the pants finish!
Posted Nov 15, 2004 2:27 am

ripper333Route Climbed: traverse from thunderbolt to sill Date Climbed: sept 2004
traverse
Posted Oct 24, 2004 5:03 pm

RobtRoute Climbed: Clyde Variation Date Climbed: 2 Sept. 04  Sucess!

Robt

PCS trip led by Bob Suzuki
Posted Sep 20, 2004 6:16 pm

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